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Trip: Wedge Mt in a day - Classic/north-east arete

 

Date: 7/12/2008

 

Trip Report:

After 3 previous attempts I finally tagged the summit of Wedge Mt via Classic route along entire north-east arete. Had some great company, stellar weather and good snow/ice conditions.

 

Approach to arete via Weart-Wedge col:

 

2665141884_2b3c85ea76_b.jpg

 

North-west face of Wedge Mt:

 

2664317455_a4b2af4dcd_b.jpg

 

Entire north arete:

 

2665169412_1a7f3c12c6_b.jpg

 

Arete from up top:

 

2665142484_6b92a6d0b6_b.jpg

 

Descent via west ice fall:

 

2664317653_ccdea30612_b.jpg

 

Route map/topo:

 

2664951064_55f0cd2b66_o.jpg

 

Gear Notes:

- Rope.

- Std glacier travel gear.

 

Approach Notes:

- Left trail-head (~ 2 500') at midnight Saturday July 12.

- 3 hrs to hut at Wedgemont Lake.

- Short break for tea at lake,

- Ascended via Wedge-Weart col/north-east arete.

- On summit (~ 9 527') at 8:40 am.

- Descended via ice fall on west side (some crevasse and falling serac hazards at ice fall).

- Back to car by 4:30 pm after some lounging at hut.

- Total elevation gain/loss 14 000' (~ 7 000' each way).

- Total distance 14.6 miles.

- View from the summit - spectacular.

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