Technical Boots question

[dmuja]

 

So right now I use my old Solomon SM lights for volcanoe hiking and even occasional steep alpine ice (with pons). The climbing Id like to get more into may require going from that (see previous sentence) to mixed ice/rock to vertical rock face and cracks etc, all in one pitch. I don't mind switching from pons to no-pons when terrain calls for a change but, id like to keep the same boots on for the "harder" ("harder" for me) alpine rock climbing say 5.8 to 5.10.

 

So, whats the best boot for technical rock?

 

Should be:

 

~light weight and flexi for the approach and possible carries.

~stiff enough to climb steep snice

~crampon compatible of coarse

~Super grippy and with good edging

 

suggestions are greatly appreciated..thnx

[Figger_Eight]

I'll go with Garmont Towers, Sportiva Trango Extremes or Kayland Apex Rock or XT.

[TREETOAD]

Just came back from three days of snow slogging in Strathcona park. I was wearing a pair of Trango evo S and my partner was wearing the Garmont towers. both fairly new about three trips on each. We travelled around 6 to eight hours each day, all on snow. Both of them stayed dry for the first two days, The last day was about twelve hours worth of corn snow. At about hour 8 my feet started to feel a bit wet. When we got back to the truck me I had wet socks. My partners feet were dry. His boots started to fray along the seam of the phoney kevlar looking material after the first outing. I noticed that mine have also started to fray on the same sort of material under the lace crossing. Both of these boots are super comfortable and work really well with crampons. Although the sportivas do not have much of a front welt, my BD neve's stayed on fine.

Hope this helps.

Edited June 26, 2008 by TREETOAD

[montypiton]

into the third year with a pair of Garmont Epic-Karbo-Goretex, I'm very happy with them -- super sticky, rigid sole, and extremely comfortable -- 5.10 rock & wi5 ice, no problems. the toe welt is minimal, and I've done some tweaking on crampon toe-bails to achieve reliable purchase -- but its worth it for a boot that performs this well. I have a buddy who had durability issues with a pair of these -- seams failing, and Garmont replaced his boots in the first season. I coated the seams on mine with liquid neoprene and have had no problems. I love 'em!