Leavenworth Lawn Darts

[PJM]

Just wanted to get some feedback from anyone who has done the 4 pitch Yard Sale (art?) to Lawn Darts bolted route on warrior wall. The book mentions that I'll need a couple 3" cams to get from the 3rd pitch belay station to traverse over to the last pitch and climbing route called Lawn darts. It's not hard climbing so I'm wondering if anyones just been belayed from the 3rd Pitch belay over to the the Lawn darts belay station and just risked the whipper? Yeah - kind of stupid. But anyway, just thought I'd ask and it looks like I'll be buying the cams anyway.

[mattp]

I don't think it is all that sketchy there as I recall but I'd bring the cams. More worrisome is a slight runout on the first pitch where a friend of mine broke their leg.

 

That is a fun set of climbs on Peekaboo Tower.

[Peter_Puget]

If I recall it's third class traversing to get to Lawn Darts but Yard Art requires a rack doesn't it?

[telemarker]

I don't think it is all that sketchy there as I recall but I'd bring the cams. More worrisome is a slight runout on the first pitch where a friend of mine broke their leg.

 

That is a fun set of climbs on Peekaboo Tower.

 

Ouch! What part of the first pitch did this happen? The slab moves above the bolt on the second pitch of Yard Art get your attentilon! And I would agree, Peek-a-boo tower is a blast, and a great little summit.

[mattp]

Maybe it is the second pitch. You clip a bolt at a bulge and then step up but it isn't over and some slabby moves have you looking at a bad fall. I've climbed it a couple of times and the first time it didn't bother me but the second time I found it frightening right there. I think the second time I was more or less coming off the couch, and didn't trust my feet.

[telemarker]

Maybe it is the second pitch. You clip a bolt at a bulge and then step up but it isn't over and some slabby moves have you looking at a bad fall. I've climbed it a couple of times and the first time it didn't bother me but the second time I found it frightening right there. I think the second time I was more or less coming off the couch, and didn't trust my feet.

 

Yep, that makes more sense to me. If you were to blow it above that bolt before stuffing a cam into the crack, you'd definitely ground out on the slab below the belay. Your partner must have almost landed on you then!

[mattp]

I wasn't the belayer and I wasn't there but she had tried to traverse off left a bit when she got scared.

[egaibrev]

I think the traverse to the base of Lawn Darts is on a ledge, as others said. The final pitch of Yard Art (to the right of Lawn Darts) is nice to have a big piece or 2 for.

 

I remember the slab moves starting the second pitch to be slightly spooky. They definitely take some focus, but if you can trust your feet they aren't so bad. Definitely a fun set of climbs on that formation.

 

There's more info here:

 

http://mountainproject.com/v/washington/leavenworth/icicle_creek/105940765

[PJM]

Dang guys - thanks for the feedback on that. I've been studying the leavenworth guide a lot while these rains kill it for outside climbing. Yard Art with a finish on Lawn Darts appeared to be fairly well protected (bolts) from the mini topo in the book. The guy I'm climbing with isn't a vet or anything which is why I chose this easier route with no trad needed. Out of all the climbing areas there this route combo and some at Clems really were calling out to me. I'm not taking any above average chances cause I really like my legs, so I guess I'll see when I get there.

 

Thanks again.

[TrogdortheBurninator]

if you are looking for a well protected a sport climb, how about condorphamine addiction?

[PJM]

Thanks for the tip. I'll be headed that way. Hopefully no crowds and no one shows so I can leave some PBR at the base for when I get down.