Braydon Posted June 5, 2008 Share Posted June 5, 2008 A friend and I are thinking about trying a few alpine ice routes this summer and wanted to know what your first ice climb was and if it was a good choice or not. Thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pms Posted June 5, 2008 Share Posted June 5, 2008 Mowich face on rainier in Sept. Was a good choice and conditions. Yes I know it's a ski route. Good carving conditions as I remember. Easy sticks for us without having to swing much at all. Summit bivy and then down the DC. I'm sure I was thinking at the time, another 30 years and folks will be shredding here soon. Not Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pup_on_the_mountain Posted June 6, 2008 Share Posted June 6, 2008 alpine ice routes this summer Ice and summer does not always go hand in hand I guess .. . Not my first route, but Eldorado NE Face is a fun one in late summer (though, this year, you may have to wait till Fall). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braydon Posted June 6, 2008 Author Share Posted June 6, 2008 Thanks. Can you do this one as a hard snow climb earlier in the year? June? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pup_on_the_mountain Posted June 6, 2008 Share Posted June 6, 2008 The route is described in Nelson's guide book (Vol 2). I don't have it with me right now, but IIRC, its supposed to be a late season climb, when the ice/neve is exposed. You can pick a harder (and longer) line up through and over the schrund if desired. We did it in mid September in a low snow year (2005), and it was good ice/neve. I'd guess it will be more snowy (read less neve) this season in June. Baker NR is a good route. Kautz Glacier on Rainier is another one, but you have to go a long ways for two-three pitches of ice. Both these should be in good condition in June though. Lava headwall on Adams (if you can get to it ), could offer lots of neve at 45-50 degree angle (but comes with the danger of rockfall). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmace Posted June 7, 2008 Share Posted June 7, 2008 Baker NR is a good route Most people cut their teeth on that one, a better route is the NE face of Matier, or is it NW anyways the popular one with a great descent and if you time it right you could ice climb one day stay at the col and rock climb the next day that would be my choice for an awesome weekend, which I have done and loved!! check out Alpine select, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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