Your First Alpine Ice Climb(s)

[Braydon]

A friend and I are thinking about trying a few alpine ice routes this summer and wanted to know what your first ice climb was and if it was a good choice or not.

 

Thanks again

 

[pms]

Mowich face on rainier in Sept. Was a good choice and conditions. Yes I know it's a ski route. Good carving conditions as I remember. Easy sticks for us without having to swing much at all. Summit bivy and then down the DC. I'm sure I was thinking at the time, another 30 years and folks will be shredding here soon. Not

[pup_on_the_mountain]

alpine ice routes this summer

Ice and summer does not always go hand in hand I guess .. .

 

Not my first route, but Eldorado NE Face is a fun one in late summer (though, this year, you may have to wait till Fall).

 

[Braydon]

Thanks. Can you do this one as a hard snow climb earlier in the year? June?

[pup_on_the_mountain]

The route is described in Nelson's guide book (Vol 2). I don't have it with me right now, but IIRC, its supposed to be a late season climb, when the ice/neve is exposed. You can pick a harder (and longer) line up through and over the schrund if desired. We did it in mid September in a low snow year (2005), and it was good ice/neve. I'd guess it will be more snowy (read less neve) this season in June.

 

Baker NR is a good route. Kautz Glacier on Rainier is another one, but you have to go a long ways for two-three pitches of ice. Both these should be in good condition in June though. Lava headwall on Adams (if you can get to it ), could offer lots of neve at 45-50 degree angle (but comes with the danger of rockfall).

[jmace]

Baker NR is a good route

 

Most people cut their teeth on that one, a better route is the NE face of Matier, or is it NW anyways the popular one with a great descent and if you time it right you could ice climb one day stay at the col and rock climb the next day

 

that would be my choice for an awesome weekend, which I have done and loved!!

 

check out Alpine select,