[TR] Colchuck and Dragontail - Colchuck Col 5/25/2008

[MtnClimbr]

Trip: Colchuck and Dragontail - Colchuck Col

 

Date: 5/25/2008

 

Trip Report:

I’ve been a ‘lurker’ on CC.com for a while now, but decided it was time for me to give back. This is a trip report for a climb that we did up Colchuck and Dragontail via Colchuck col on 5/25/08. We’ll have to see if I can get the pictures to show up…

 

Given the dismal weather forecast for Memorial weekend, we weren’t sure that it would take a turn in our favor, but decided that it was worth a try. As it turned out, all of the rain came at night and posed no problems for climbing. Plus, there were no crowds!

 

Dragontail and Colchuck:

 

The climb began on Saturday with a hike in to Colchuck Lake. We set up camp and enjoyed the absolutely amazing views. The rain began about 7 or 8 pm and it poured all night, but it was only partly cloudy in the morning. The route we took was very straight forward, beginning by heading up Colchuck Glacier.

 

Colchuck Glacier:

 

Near Colchuck col:

 

When you reach the col between Dragontail and Colchuck, head up to the right towards Colchuck’s summit. Very easy climbing, maybe class 2 or 3. The snow was a little soft with some post-holing occurring, but other than that, no issues.

 

Heading up Colchuck:

 

Heading back to the col was simple and quick. When back at the col, we headed up Dragontail.

 

 

After a while, we reached a section that required some steep down climbing. The team ahead of us decided to rope up on this section and set up a rap station. We didn’t bring a rope or harnesses up with us, so we down climbed about 100 ft and scampered up a rock section just along the ridge. The route to the summit is fairly straight forward (which ever ‘summit’ you choose…). The glasade section down Asgard pass is as fun and quick as it gets!

 

Dragontail near Asgard Pass:

 

Overall, the views were amazing and we couldn’t be happier with the lack of crowds on the mountain. This was a great time of year to be on the mountains with plentiful snow.

 

 

 

I am always curious about how long routes take before I head out to the mountain, for others who are curious, here were our times…

 

From Colchuck Lake to the Col – 2 hrs. The col to Colchuck summit – 1 hr. Back to the col - .5 hrs. The col to Dragontail Summit – 2 hrs (and that’s taking it really slow and enjoying the views!). Down Asgard pass to the lake - 1 hr (give or take). These peaks look very impressive, but it actually takes very little time to bag them both. Go for it!

 

 

Gear Notes:

We brought crampons, but didn't use them. Hiking poles and an ice axe are always great.

[KaskadskyjKozak]

 

 

Good job! Was the steep downclimbing at Pandora's box, by any chance?

[MtnClimbr]

I think it was. See pic below...

 

There was a steep snow section just below this point (see the other team peering over the edge). It was probably better to rap down it given the condition, but it was possible to down climb if you don't have a rope. Backtracking 100 ft or so down our route and then back up the granite ridge seemed to be easier and worked out well for us.

 

Is pandora's box the area, or this perched rock...?

 

[KaskadskyjKozak]

I think it was. See pic below...

 

There was a steep snow section just below this point (see the other team peering over the edge). It was probably better to rap down it given the condition, but it was possible to down climb if you don't have a rope. Backtracking 100 ft or so down our route and then back up the granite ridge seemed to be easier and worked out well for us.

 

Is pandora's box the area, or this perched rock...?

 

 

Yes, you got it!

 

Last year I attempted this route w/o adequately reading up on the route and didn't realize we were at the right spot at Pandora's box. We didn't think we'd need to downclimb a 60 degree cornice, so we backed down and went home empty handed. (We had a 30 m rope with us, so it would have been easy to do this section safely)

[belayerslayer]

Looks like you guys had a great time! My group summited Dragontail the day before (saturday). Were our steps still intact up colchuck glacier?

[olyclimber]

sweet!

[MtnClimbr]

Looks like you guys had a great time! My group summited Dragontail the day before (saturday). Were our steps still intact up colchuck glacier?

 

We had a group go up about an hour ahead of us, they kicked steps the whole way, allowing us to have a pretty easy ascent. I think your steps were melted away by the rain Saturday night...

 

Were you in the group that went up Saturday afternoon? We watched a crew of 4 or 5 reach the col just before an avalanche covered a large portion of their path. We also watched a bus sized rock fall down the cliff to the left of Asgard pass and down to the lake. Lots of snow/rock activity on Saturday, pretty amazing.