Favorite Desert Climbs

[mneagle]

Well, if you're interested in more than towers...

 

Lone Creek Cirque has loads of fantastic granite climbing. It's also got pretty comfortable temperatures during the middle of the summer and no crowds. My favorite routes were Vertical Overhangs (linking best pitches of Vertical Smile and Triple Overhangs) and Out of the Question. Both are solid 5.10 on stellar rock. The Golden Wall was OK as well. Awesome camping in the cirque beneath towering granite walls. A stock photo below. Question Mark wall is on the right. The Summit Wall is the spire-ish feature on the left. The Golden Wall is climber's right to the Summit Wall.

 

The San Rafael Swell has some really good stuff too. The ratio of quality climbing to crowds is the most favorable in the state and free camping to boot. I've been to the Dylan Wall several times on weekends and never saw another group of climbers. It's mostly single pitch sandstone crack climbing but there are a few multi-pitchers in the area. If you can climb Bob Can't Climb then you can climb any 5.10b in the state. Not my photo but this shows some guy on Planet Waves, one of the best 11a cracks around:

 

Closer and easier to access from SLC is Bell's Canyon. Arm and Hammer on Middle Bell is an amazing route on awesome granite that goes at 5.10 with 2 A0 moves over a few blank sections of slab (or 11c free if you are a slab master). I recall it being about 6 pitches long. Here's a photo I found. After clearing the huge roof towards the right you then make your way up and left across the polished slab. Don't lean back to much when you reach the "Zion curtain"...it flexes uncomfortably.

 

When it's super hot down in the valley, head up to the Hellgate Cliffs up near snowbird and check out 'Til Hell Freezes Over or go all the way up to Devil's Castle and try Black Streak. They both have some choss but still enjoyable multipitch climbs. All you need is a set of draws and a few small cams for either one.

Belay on Black Streak:

 

Hope that helps.

[Sol]

Vision Quest on King of Pain Spire

 

 

[fgw]

Mneagle posted a cool TR on N. Ridge of Monster Tower here on cc couple years back I think.

 

Mike, for more tower stoke see Brad's site:

 

www.piquaclimber.com

Edited April 3, 2008 by fgw

[fgw]

more random tower stoke photos - let me know if you want any info on any of these:

 

Shirley rapping off Washer Woman:

 

Happy Turk tipping:

 

The ever classic Wyrick-Merrill on River Tower:

 

Lightning Bolt Cracks on N. 6Shooter:

 

hiking out after NE Ridge on Kingfisher:

 

South Gossip & our shadows:

 

The window on the Window Rt. on Echo Pinnacle

 

Shirley rapping off of Sheeprock

 

Shirley, Paul, Brad on Predator:

 

Shirley rapping off the (phallic) Hindu:

 

interiors of the Mace in Sedona:

 

Lighthouse Tower, Lonely Vigil

 

rapping Summit Block Rock in Sedona:

 

rapping off mexican hat:

Edited April 3, 2008 by fgw

[DRep]

Wow, those pictures are amazing. I know you're looking for some desert climbs, but I hope you don't overlook the Tetons. You're so close, living in SLC and they are so fun!

[layton]

Dang man! Glad I asked, those are sweet pics, fgw - did you use to live around here?