andrewbanandrew Posted January 9, 2008 Author Share Posted January 9, 2008 yes camping will be fucked and people will start coming in early which sucks cuz that is a great time of year to be there. it starts to pick up a little at smith at that time but just walk around back and have it all to yourself. or hang out in the main area with all the bro-bras. how easy are you looking for trad stuff? well given that I have a grand total of 3 trad leads under my belt all under 5.7...probably 5.7 or easier. though I wouldn't mind aid practice on steeper stuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
summerprophet Posted January 17, 2008 Share Posted January 17, 2008 Smith rock sounds like the place you want to be. Lots of sport climbing, fair and predictable weather in march, and great easy trad climbing. Lovers Leap is great, but the campground will not be open yet, and you will be hiking across steep snow to get to the base of the routes. Other climbing exists quite close to the leap that is South facing and snow free, but not sufficient enough to entertain you for a solid week. Incidently, the last three years have had snow there in March. Yosemite is pretty stiff as far as grades go, atleast until you get used to the smooth granite. March is fine in the valley, but you might be pulling straws with the weather. Redrocks is great, but the gate closes early before spring break, so you have pretty short days...... and the campground sucks. Pinnacles is NOT a roadtrip destination. It is more a place for the locals to frequent in the winter while they wait for the valley to open up. There are a few good routes there, but the majority are of poor quality rock, and for the most part can be done in a single pitch. Everything north of you is out obviously. Head to Smith, you will have a great time. Send me a PM if you want a hit list, or learn about a few choice routes that the crowds haven't discovered yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted January 17, 2008 Share Posted January 17, 2008 I live in Joshua Tree, and I'd be the first to admit that it's overrated as a destination. Trippy landscape, climbing history, tons of routes, but as the local saying goes "6000 routes and about 300 of them worth climbing". Josh is emphatically NOT where a party with your background/experience/desired routes wants to be. You COULD split time between easy trad at Josh and clip ups at New Jack City (little over 1 hour from Josh). NJC is kind of a trashy area in a way from the partiers, but has tons of clip ups at all grades, free camping. Mostly thin edging/crimping on metamorphic basalt. Doesn't climb like NW basalt at all. Pinnacles is not the place. The Valley will be a complete toss up on weather and it's not a place for sport climbs. If it were me: Red Rocks Smith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miladugga Posted January 26, 2008 Share Posted January 26, 2008 I don't have the experience these other guys have with other areas but I'm also a newbie trad leader in about your range. Every year I go to Smith and can highly recommend the easy trad there, especially try Spiderman (5.7 2P) and Superslab (5.6 3P.) Both are easy climbs and simple to protect. And obviously tons of bolted routes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AvlNC Posted February 3, 2008 Share Posted February 3, 2008 easy smith trad list (all nice climbs): cinammon slab 5.6, only first p, second p sucks and is r/o -- unless you do the sport cry baby 5.9--exposed feeling and fun, puts you on the top spiderman 5.7, 2p reptile 5.8r --easier than rating if you don't mind a little sketchy rock and one 20' r/o lion's jaw 5.8 classic lycopodophyta 5.7 and rabbit stew 5.7 (these two share anchors and are nice, easy, well protected lines) bookworm 5.7 is in the same area moscow 5.6, 3p first 2p suck, last pitch is nice and gets you on top rope-de-dope block crack 5.8 (not a hard 8) pack animal 5.8, 2p -- first p is sport, 2nd trad and gets you on top peking 5.8 - first p is super nice; 2-3 .75s cling on 5.8 (on backside near reptile and a desparate man (5.9), a little stiff) toys in the attic 5.9- a couple of 9 moves and you need at least 1 #4 moonshine dihedral 5.9 uber classic, as nice as easy trad gets at smith new testament 5.10a but can set up tr from sports if you want karate crack 10a, nice, heady traverse at top (more so for second) some more easier, fun stuff in the canyon -- @ the student wall hope this gets you started; other smith details-- lots, and lots of sport -- too many good ones to list; weather will likely be dry and nice; camping is free at the grasslands (if you stay at the park cg, it is $4 a night walk-in {you have to cook at a communal place in the parking lot}. for your $4 you get camping, a day pass worth $3 and a shower worth $2 (so you are actually making $1 for every night you stay there)....there is an excellent shop at the entrance (redpoint, not hardrock although he does have the best huckleberry ice cream in the world), and the terrebonne depot has good food and brews and is owned by climbers if you don't have a guide yet..go cheap and get the Thesenga select, $20 and way more updated also some links: www. smithrock.com http://www.spiritone.com/~summit/ you will not be able to climb trad all week at your level, and there is plenty of sport to keep you busy and entertained. hope this helps, drop a pm if you want some more info, i am local Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nkane Posted February 3, 2008 Share Posted February 3, 2008 Good list, AvlNC. I disagree about Cinnamon Slab though. I found the second pitch actually a fun 5.5, and not runout at all. I did the whole route as my first two trad leads, and it's a great feeling to step up on top and see all the Cascade volcanoes laid out in front of you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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