stores in PDX?

[billcoe]

but for all intents and purposes it's on it.

 

 

What are you talking about. It either is or it is not. And for all intent purposes.....it is not on Sandy.

 

2 houses off that street Kev. I googled it for you in case your Google function is currently inoperable:-)

Google maps says it's damn near on Sandy nah nah nah nah click here

 

928 NE 28th Ave

Portland, OR 97232

(503) 797-1991

_____________________________________________________

 

Always allow a rope to 'rest' for at least 10 minutes after a big fall.

 

How does one do that if they have just fallen 50 feet (and not gotten hurt) and there are on a 12 pitch climb? Does the climber make an anchor and unweight the rope?

 

Isn't this why you always have a portaledge and a pipe and a 6 pack with you on anything over 3 pitches.

 

Nobody waits 10 min. unless they are "working" a route. In that case, they usually lower and shake out, or hand and aid it. I think you don't want to take repetitive screamers is what they are suggesting.

[mike1]

You can't loose with REI's return policy though. A friend of mine threw his rope down at the local crag and it was the most twisted mess I'd ever seen. We climbed on it a few frustrating times and he returned it for a new rope. Another friend picked up some boots, wore 'em up hood and through the Cascades then returned them for an upgrade no questions asked.

 

 

Link

 

I'm done talking about ropes now, I didn't mean to come off so rude. But I suspect, given that REI carries quality Mfg ropes only. Like real real good stuff, that your buddy was responsible for his rope being kinked, and not REI or the Mfg. I put a bunch of info up there to look at.

 

I've been wrong plenty of times before though. So your results still may vary.

I appreciate your response billcoe. I never really said why the rope was twisted because I didn't think it was pertinent to this topic. But just for the sake of clarification I will try to explain what we did. We met at the top of the crag and he pulled out the rope still wrapped in plastic. I think it was like a 9mm NE rope (whatever rope was on sale I’m sure). We found a relatively flat spot and I showed him how to un-spool it using the same methods you presented above. Like many others I had made the mistake on my first rope years ago of throwing in out on the floor introducing those 14 original twists that would haunt me every time I used it. I remember thinking this rope felt kinda stiff and the mantle was slicker than I remembered from my recently purchased ropes. Anyways, after we were done un-spooling it, he lay it up over his neck so he could scramble up to the top-rope bolts. He tossed it after everything was rigged and it was a little messy on the ground. It looked like he had looped it around his shoulders fine and I thought he had thrown it fairly clean. We both rapped down on our ATCs and the twists started to show. It wasn’t until we started lowering from the climbs after topping out that it got really unmanageable and it continued to get worse each time. My guess was it had to do with the rope diameter, mantle and the rapping on it first thing. I suggested he take it back to REI just to see what they'd say. He was ready to scrap it and by a new one until the dude hooked him up. So that’s it... the rest of the story. FYI, I’ve been at this for more years than I care to divulge here. I do have a little experience.

 

[billcoe]

I appreciate your response billcoe. I never really said why the rope was twisted because I didn't think it was pertinent to this topic. But just for the sake of clarification I will try to explain what we did. We met at the top of the crag and he pulled out the rope still wrapped in plastic. I think it was like a 9mm NE rope (whatever rope was on sale I’m sure). We found a relatively flat spot and I showed him how to un-spool it using the same methods you presented above. Like many others I had made the mistake on my first rope years ago of throwing in out on the floor introducing those 14 original twists that would haunt me every time I used it. I remember thinking this rope felt kinda stiff and the mantle was slicker than I remembered from my recently purchased ropes. Anyways, after we were done un-spooling it, he lay it up over his neck so he could scramble up to the top-rope bolts. He tossed it after everything was rigged and it was a little messy on the ground. It looked like he had looped it around his shoulders fine and I thought he had thrown it fairly clean. We both rapped down on our ATCs and the twists started to show. It wasn’t until we started lowering from the climbs after topping out that it got really unmanageable and it continued to get worse each time. My guess was it had to do with the rope diameter, mantle and the rapping on it first thing. I suggested he take it back to REI just to see what they'd say. He was ready to scrap it and by a new one until the dude hooked him up. So that’s it... the rest of the story. FYI, I’ve been at this for more years than I care to divulge here. I do have a little experience.

 

I can relate. I returned a rope of mine last summer to REI and they were great to me. I'd gone out to clean a new line, and bought 4 of these things. ROPE PROTECTORS

 

 

I'd used them a few times just toproping and protecting it over an edge and they worked just like they said they would work to keep the abrasion off the rope. Great shit. The REI web-site text says: (they misspelled from, that wasn't me)

 

"Protect your rope form the wear and tear of abrasion and sharp edges. Easy-to-place Spiroll extends the life and reliability of your rope. *It self-wraps around the rope for a snug fit--no need to tie it off"

 

So I went to clean off a new line and hung on for over 10 hours that day. I had protected the only place where the rope was in contact with the rock, but all the bouncing up and down up and down all day had slipped the Spiroll protector back like a foreskin on a hard Penis, and although I had looked up a few times at the rope, as the protector was lower than the contact with the rock, it appeared to me that my rope was still covered where it was in contact but it wasn't protected at all as it turns out. At the end of the the day, there was a huge white core shot spot where my not-that-old of a rope had rubbed on the rock all day. The rope was beyond trashed.

 

Damn I was pissed. Once my testicals dropped back down as the fear of a rope failure subsided and I had burned in anger for a while after telling some folks this story. After hearing from more than one person the same thing ie, return it to REI, I did, they replaced it and I cannot tell you how good that felt. The guy just tells me, dude, go pull the rope of your choice off the wall and it's yours.

 

Man...my anger soooo dissipated...........like... immediately. So I know that feeling.

 

The moral of my story is don't use these rope protectors (they are a great thing BTW) and hang on a rope all day bouncing and jugging without duct taping them down, like I should have done then anyway - except that I believed the marketing hype. That was just last summer, I have a new bi-color Mammut now.....