Finger pain

[sampdx]

My fingers have been sore for a few weeks - especially around the joints. I'm aware that this is from climbing crimpy routes, but I've moved into harder routes and want to keep climbing them if possible. In addition to taping my fingers when I climb, is there anything else I can do to prevent injuring them further (aside from stopping climbing or climbing just juggy routes)? Any info would be appreciated.

[sexual_chocolate]

umm you gotta rest. it sounds like over-use, but could easily become a chronic injury situation if you keep climbing if they are really hurting. Try icing (3 minutes 3 tiumes a day) for 10 days, with no hard climbing, and build up a little slower when coming back.

 

Yeah it sucks balls to pull back (it usually coincides with peak power times) but you'll be climbing wayyyyyy stronger in the long run if you keep pain and injury in check.

[Sol]

everything sexual chocolate said, plus add some bromelain to you routine, and some glucomsamine with chondroitin.

 

 

[tlinn]

- warm up A LOT before you get on hard crimpy routes (at least 10-15 mins). Increases the synovial fluid in the joints, more blood flow, etc.

- stretch out your forearm flexors. I usually go up against a wall and stretch them out by placing the palms of my hands against the wall and lean into it a bit. hold for 30 - 45 seconds, rest and then repeat.

- if you feel pain after climbing ice it. 10 minutes on, 10 minutes off, 10 min. on, 10 min. off...every time!

- mobilizations may help. Try taking each of the joints of your fingers and moving them towards and away from your palm 6 to 8 times per joint after climbing.

- tape for proprioception, so that you get a better idea of when you are pushing it too hard and you are about to blow out your pulleys so you stop before it is too late!!!

 

I've blown a pulley before and it sucks! It takes a really long time to heal so you are much better off to do a lot of prevention so that you don't end up blowing your pulley and spending 3 months without any climbing at all!!!

 

Hope this helps, sure Layton will have more to add!

[sampdx]

Thanks for the info - very helpful.