Gandolf's in PDX

[geoff]

I was there on Tuesday and my partner mentioned he'd wasn't thrilled with the bolts because they weren't depicted in John Long's book. They seemed good to me. Probably much bigger than a 1/4", not rusted with big solid hangers.

 

That being said, you can clip the bolts and move over to the start of P2 where you can make an anchor with a good nut at the base of the route and a piton behind a flake. You could also sling the flake with a long runner.

 

The top of P2 has one bomber looking new-style bolt and one of the hammer in kind. I never have had any concerns about rapping from there and with a 60M you can make it down.

 

As for history, those bolts seem historic to me. There would only be an issue if you rapped off the P1 anchors. Even then, probaly not much of an issue.

 

 

 

 

[hemp22]

hmm. my 60M rope must be getting short in its old age. the last time i looked at rapping from the top of P2 with a 60, it was still quite a ways off the ground at the bottom. oh well, that's why i like my 70M.

 

but - i have rapped off those P1 anchors and haven't felt sketched about it. i don't know what type of bolts those mushroom-heads are, but i'm pretty sure they're found at other anchor chains throughout broughton's as well.