U-dist running, Chim rock, cornice crashing this W

[pinegar]

I have an unfinished project on the south side of the north peak of chimney rock, which I plan to complete in the next few

weeks. I'm working but my schedule is flexible and dry weather is all I need. You can read about chimney rock in Beckey CAG.

The protection is generally sparse and the rock can be mossy/dirty around there but my favorite area is atypically good.

(steep & south facing, no dirt, grass, etc.) Let me know if you're interested. I did a trip there roped solo at the start of

this month, but a partner would make it go faster (and of course somewhat safer). If it goes. After 200 feet of class 4 up

from the moat of the chimney glacier, I climbed 100 feet that was easier than 5.10, but overhanging about 10 feet, which I

discovered when I rapped off and had to be careful not to be forced to re-ascend the rope. From the high point, the route was

not overhanging above, but unclimbed? so could be harder. Ran out of time that day, my first doing roped solo. Just 4x more vertical to the top or something.

 

Plan on a full day to drive/hike in comfortably from Seattle and 1/2 day to get out. Maybe it will be a lot easier now that I know where the climber's trail is.

 

To give some background and since this is turning into a TR, I'll say that on the second full day up there I went for the main

peak, but was too slow and turned around roughly 500ft below the summit (2:00pm). A big contributor to the slowness was dirt

in my eyes (hard contact lenses suck for this). I have no plans to try the main peak again, at least not without swim goggles

or a lot of snow and ice around. East face direct has a great view and a lot of vertical, and it sucks that I wasn't up to

the task, but I think the mountain has too much grass and not enough slope angle to make it a really great climb. In fact, from the North peak it looks more like a cow-pie than a chimney.

[pinegar]

I'm also looking for partners in general to go on jogs within about 5 miles of the U-district. The fastest I _can_ go is a mile in about 6 minutes, and my typical jog-pace is 8 minutes per mile for about 6 miles. Running is a great way to bullshit about climbing, right?

 

This winter I will have (at least) a few much needed weeks of unemployment, and I have lots of not-thought-out goals for skiing and climbing in the NW, maybe even Mexico. I would like to start cultivating partners now. I'm especially interested in people with solo experience.

 

If climbing with a partner is 10x safer than solo, then partners who routinely do solo work are probably 10x safer than a couple of ordinary partners.

 

It's probably for another topic to speculate about how (I confidently assume) accident rates for solo climbers/skiers are lower than for teams. (but what would climbing partners be without spray?)

 

So climbers have fewer accidents solo, but it's safer to have a partner, right? Is anyone on the same page? Also, if you love maps half as much as I do, we should get along great.

 

I love the mountains, and the feeling that I can go anywhere in the mountains. But I like to stay safe too. Cornices are beautiful, but often they cannot be safely navigated without a partner. Snow anchors obviously consume a lot of time, and the days are so short....

[Jens]

Their is some huge overhanging real-estate where you speak. Base jumpers reading this might want to have a look someday.

[Panos]

" If climbing with a partner is 10x safer than solo, then partners who routinely do solo work are probably 10x safer than a couple of ordinary partners."

 

There are gaps in your reasoning. However you say "probably" and this saves you from making an unjustified statement. By the way, where do you get your statistics from? It sounds an interesting project in any case. I got your message, thank you.

 

Panos