AlaskaNative Posted September 16, 2007 Share Posted September 16, 2007 I'm looking for suggestions on which crampons might fit needs ranging from use on snowshoeing trips that turn out to need pons for parts of the trip, up to lightweight mountaineering on Baker, Ingraham, Emmons, etc. It would be great if it could span to higher difficulty terrain later, but that's not a requirement at this point. For some of the higher glacier trips (summer only), I'm considering a boot like the Trango EVO Glacier, also, if that's the recommendation. I assume a new-matic is preferred to the hassle and compression of a strap-on, but open to advice. Also open to suggestions on models, but it seems these 3 get high ratings: - Black Diamond Contact - Grivel G12 - Black Diamond Sabretooth Not sure how much the anti-bott devices are needed, so interested in opinions on that also. Last, is how people like to carry their pons; dedicated carry case, tied on somewhere, protective guards, etc. Thanks for any advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akicebum Posted September 16, 2007 Share Posted September 16, 2007 Check out the Grivel Air Tech. They are aluminum so they won't last long on rock, but they are super light, fit that boot well, and they come equipped with antibot plates. I've used them as have many of my friends. BD also makes an aluminum crampon I think it is called the Neve, haven't used them, but they are light as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken_p Posted September 16, 2007 Share Posted September 16, 2007 Hey there, BD Sabertooths are always a good choice as the come with bots and are good for a wide array of activities. A bit heavy for ultralighters, though. BD Neve is a good aluminum 10 pointer. Light, but a bit soft for late spring summer if ya get a lot of rocks. Botts are nice, keep the clumping down and the newer ones fit quite nicely and are quick to remove if you wish. I use a Petzl 'pon case unless I'm going light then face the points together and wrap with straps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtnview Posted September 19, 2007 Share Posted September 19, 2007 I have the Grivel Air Tech New-matic 12 pt steel crampons with anti-botts that fit very well on my Scarpa Charmoz GTX boots. Check them out as the Trango boots are very similar to the Scarpa Charmoz's. Best regards, Allan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimbingPanther Posted September 19, 2007 Share Posted September 19, 2007 I have Trango's & use G12. No complaints. Definitely get something as automatic as what your boot will accept for ease of use. Stored points together in a homemade nylon case w/ 2 loops to put straps through. In time, natural vent holes will develop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan_Miller Posted September 20, 2007 Share Posted September 20, 2007 I'm with 'mtnview' above on this one, except I use them on the Trango S Evo's. This is the best rockclimbing boot/crampon setup I've yet used. The points are somewhat shorter than others, and seemingly less wobbly. I just turn the points towards each other and strap them to the pack. I've never felt the need for carying cases. Extra unecessary weight in my humble opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Le Piston Posted September 21, 2007 Share Posted September 21, 2007 I have the Trango S EVO boots and use them for summer glacier climbs and mid 5th class alpine rock climbs, for which they are perfect (if it's not too cold). I have the Grivel G-12's for any serious glacier travel and Trango aluminum crampons for everything else and have found they are secure and fit well. I like the anti-bot plates, as I've had balling up of snow with other crampons. Any of the other options suggested will work, it's a matter of preference and features. I have used rubber crampon covers if I put the crampons in the pack with my shell and other gear. When I strap them on the outside, the less weight the better. I hope this is helpful Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlaskaNative Posted September 21, 2007 Author Share Posted September 21, 2007 Sounds like so far nobody really advocates the Contact pons, and instead would recommend aluminum unless you're exposed to a lot of rocks. Several prefer the G-12 to the Sabretooth, but I was wondering if there was anything more specific about the difference, like weight, grip, ease-of-attachment, durability, balance, fit, bots, versatility, etc. Thanks for the feedback so far, and interested in anything else on these two pons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cj001f Posted September 21, 2007 Share Posted September 21, 2007 good fucking lord are you trying to imitate my gay ass patagonia lifestyle of mindless gear fetishism? Buy a pair of Sabretooths and be done with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlaskaNative Posted September 22, 2007 Author Share Posted September 22, 2007 good fucking lord are you trying to imitate my gay ass patagonia lifestyle of mindless gear fetishism? Buy a pair of Sabretooths and be done with it. Can't argue with your assessment. Looks like I've hit the point of diminishing returns on benefit vs time spent in gear anxiety... Looks like I have to use the Sabretooth Clip-On and not the Sabretooth Pro, because those boots don't have the proper front welt. Crampon guidance for Trango S EVO Crampon guidance for Scarpa Charmoz Just to show I can't say quit til I've obsessively stressed over each detail, here's a couple write-ups I found and was wondering if anyone agreed/disagreed with the comments on these two pons: Sabretooth at AlaskaMountaineering.com G12 at AlaskaMountaineering.com Found some other reviews here: Sabretooth at REI G12 at REI Sabretooth at Backcountry.com G12 at Backcountry.com Sabretooth at Trailspace.com Sabretooth at OutdoorReview.com G12 at OutdoorReview.com Vendor page for the Black Diamond Vendor page for the G12 An oddball here, a review of the Stubai Light Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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