[TR] Mount Maude - North Face 9/9/2007

[catbirdseat]

Trip: Mount Maude - North Face

 

Date: 9/9/2007

 

Trip Report:

I had done this route once before two years ago . The ice was really just hard snow then and I was curious what it would be like later in the year. I could find no trip reports later than August, so I decided to just go and see what I would find.

 

We hiked into LeRoy Basin on Saturday afternoon and bivied among the larch trees. Met a party who had scrambled Seven Finger Jack that day. They had digital pictures of the NF of Maude that suggested gaps in the ice on the route.

 

Got up at 5:30 am and were under way by 6 am under headlamps. We reached the col at about 7:30 am. Three of our party turned back to camp, not liking the looks of the traverse, coupled with what they'd seen in the photos.

 

The traverse was snow free and we didn't rope up for it this time. As usual, lots of loose rock. The trickiest part was the initial descent from the col.

 

On route at 9:30 am we found the first block similar to the previous trip. On the second block we started to encounter sections of bare rock. We'd been concerned about blank slab, but that wasn't the case. The gaps were pretty easily climbed. There is some rock pro available here and there (small tricams and knifeblades).

 

One of the nice things about these rock islands is that they give you a nice comfy place to take a break. The route was done in 5 blocks with at least some simulclimbing on each block.

 

We noted that there was much less sun cupping, which meant more strenuous footwork. I guess the lower angle of the sun accounts for that.

 

This was Larry's first alpine ice climb and he did great. Since I was afraid my crampon would fall off, he took the final crux pitch, featuring about 15 feet of 60 degree water ice. Following it, my right crampon came loose and I had to do those last 15 feet with one foot. That's really hard!

 

Jennifer, ascending via the scramble route, was waiting for us at the top of the ice and accompanied us on the descent.

 

Gear Notes:

Used: Red tricam (2x), knifeblades (3x), #7 nut, ice screws (5 used numerous times), pickets (3 used a lot)

 

Did not use: slider nuts (3), small cams (3)

 

Approach Notes:

1.5-2 hours from col. Be prepared for very exposed and loose third class.

Edited September 11, 2007 by catbirdseat

[Bug]

Pics! Where are the pics?

Nice tr otherwise.

[catbirdseat]

Sorry, we forgot to get the camera from one of the climbers who turned back. We might be able to get some photos from the party on Seven Fingered Jack, since John works with some of them.

[Bug]

Makes for a slow day here at work.

[Weekend_Climberz]

Nice trip :tup: to bad no pics though

 

Next time try one crampon, on lead, in ski boots