[TR] Dorado Needle - SW Buttress 8/24/2007

[Mark_L]

Trip: Dorado Needle - SW Buttress

 

Date: 8/24/2007

 

Trip Report:

On August 23, Dave Nicholson and I hiked up to the base of Eldorado Peak on our way in to climb the SW Buttress of Dorado Needle. On our way up we encountered someone who was trying to get a sub 5 hour round trip up Eldorado. He selflessly jeopardized his goal to offer us some route advice on Dorado Needle and then continued on.

 

We arrived at the Eldorado Bivy around 5 PM and had a leisurely evening cooking dinner, photographing the alpenglow, etc.

 

The next morning we had a leisurely start at 7:30 AM and we were on our way across the Inspiration Glacier toward the Eldorado - Dorado Needle col at the head of the Marble Creek Glacier. In about 2 hours from camp we were at the bottom of the snow below the SW Buttress. After easily gaining the slabs on the right side of the buttress, we headed up an open book to gain the ridge crest. From there the route stays close to ridge, wandering to either side to get around vertical steps and gendarmes. The best pitches are the ones above the feature described as the "5.7 gendarme" in Nelson's book. Overall, the climbing on the entire buttress is quite enjoyable.

 

About 4 hours after starting on the rock, we were at the NW ridge. We had a quick lunch and climbed 1 pitch of excellent rock including the legendary cheval to the summit. We downclimbed this pitch back to our lunch spot and made our way to some rappel slings overlooking the McAllister Glacier. The rappel appeared to just drop us into the large moat between the glacier and the rock, but further investigation revealed that it was possible to exit the moat to the glacier by either a jump or by climbing the wall of the moat. Dave chose the former and I chose the latter and soon we were roped together for the descent of the McAllister Glacier which was steep but straightforward.

 

We trudged back to camp and when we arrived we decided that it was more attractive to watch the sunset views and stay another night than to try to negotiate the boulder field in the dark. The winds picked up that night, testing out Dave's new megamid which held up just fine, if not a little noisy.

 

The next morning we groped our way down through the fog and drizzle and negotiated a very slippery and treacherous boulder field. We were the only car left in the parking lot when we got down early Saturday afternoon.

 

Here are some pictures:

The base of the SW Buttress

High on the Buttress

 

On the knife edge

 

One of the outstanding upper pitches

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

ice axe, aluminum crampons, small to medium rack to 3", 1 60m rope got us from the NW ridge to the glacier easily.

 

Approach Notes:

Be careful on wet mossy boulders. The glaciers are in excellent shape this summer, very simple travel. Don't look at the picture in Nelson's guidebook, it doesn't tell you anything and its wrong. The start of the climb is pretty obvious if you scope it out.

[tyree]

I went out there a long time ago and got turned around by weather/lack of time. Beautiful area and nice looking route. Nice work!

[Toast]

Fun Fun!!