Alpine Ice in the High Sierra

[chris]

Its pretty grim. I'll add pictures on Wednesday.

 

I hiked into Mt. Gilbert three days ago with two guests, intending to climb the North Couloir. We found the middle 100'/30m, in the throat of the couloir completely melted out. There is typically a 20-30' (call it 5-9m) bare section in normal years. The melt-off from the upper half is turning the lower half into a dirt-streaked bowling alley, and the recent warm temps haven't helped.

 

Before we could look at Thompson, we discovered that one of us had an equipment malfunction (note to self: always make sure borrowed crampons work on the borrowers boots before the trip). From what I could see, the Smrynz Couloir was definetely out, which is typical, but the Knudtson and the Harrington may still be climbable. The Harrington looked very possible - we got the best look of it, but still didn't see the last 300' or so.

 

So we hiked out and ran north, climbing Crystal Crag on the way, and then climbing the North Couloir on North Peak. This route is still in great condition, with steeper neve up the entire right side until 200' short of the notch. The left side and top features lower angled, but bullet-proof, bare ice. Rockfall was very minimal, and all debris fall down the double fall-line to the left side of the couloir. So stay right.

 

A friend and co-worker reported that similar conditions made the V-Notch and U-Notch unclimbable as well. A large bergschrund on the V-Notch prevented access, and rockfall in both couloirs convinced him to climb rock routes instead.

 

Conclusion: Mt Thompson may by climbable via the Knudtson or Harrington, but I wouldn't count on it. North Couloir on the North Peak is in great condition, and will last the season. North Couloir on Mt Gilbert is out of condition, but may come back in when temperatures drop below freezing (minimizing the rockfall and creating water ice in the throat). The 'schrund on V-Notch may have closed it for the season, but the U-Notch may come back when temps drop enough to still the rockfall.

 

All these warm temps and stable weather days have convinced locals to work on the big alpine routes. I found myself and a guest on Starlight last week with 9 other people on the summit. 5 were accomplishing the Thunderbolt-Sill Palisade traverse.

[olyclimber]