Looking for Middle Sister - North Ridge Beta

[Julian]

Hey everyone,

 

I'm wondering if anyone has any good beta on the Renfrew Glacier route to the North Ridge of Middle Sister. I've climbed Middle from the south via the Pole Creek approach, but not from the north. In particular I'm interested in the following:

 

1. Are there any major technical difficulties on the North Ridge?

 

2. Does the Renfrew Glacier have any crevasse danger?

 

3. Are crampons required/recommended for this one, or can they be safely left behind? Similarly, is an ice axe necessary or will trekking poles be sufficient?

 

I've read the description for this route on summitpost.org (which I always take with a grain of salt) as well as several old trip reports here, and there seems to be some variation in opinion. Any recent info would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

[letsroll]

I did what I now believe the Collier glacier a few years ago. First alpine experience and just hiked up it with backpacking boots. This trip is what got me going in mountain climbing. I would bet the Renfrew is the same. I had no issues with crevasses. Heck I thought I was on a larg snow field. The North Ridge by now is totally melted out so there should be a clearly visible climbers trail up it. I started at the saddle between north and middle sisters. This is just a hike. There is a fair amount of elevation gain but great views and going through the obsidian is sweet!! I had a blast. Take the trekking poles and leave the rest if you plan on hitting the glacier later in the day. This next weekend you migh have some hard snow conditions in the AM and crampons would make travel easier.

[PaulO]

Totally agree with Letsroll's assesment especially that crampons ease the travel a lot if you are early. Don't forget your permit

 

http://www.fs.fed.us/r6/willamette/general/passespermits/recpasses/wilderness.html

 

if you are going in from Obsidian TH. For some reason they don't require it to pass through the restricted area on the PCT but they do to pass through on your way up the mountains.

 

Plus the highway is only open from the Sister's side due to construction.

[ScaredSilly]

About the only hazard is from snow bridges collapsing when going over a creek. This happened to me one 4 July weekend. By now they should be totally exposed.

 

 

[Julian]

Thanks for the responses guys. We are planning to hit the glacier towards the middle of the day since we are aiming for a one-day push (leaving Eugene at around 4am or so) so it sounds like the crampons can stay behind. Thanks for the info on the highway, guess it's a detour to Sisters or bust.