gunsight peak (?) info

[dberdinka]

Scott: its so hard to rate new routes. the little bit of new route activity i've done, we rated about 2 letter grades below what the climb felt like lesson: sandbag to cover your ass.

 

So that's why the "10b" start completely kicked our ass!

Edited August 13, 2007 by chucK

[Sol]

Scott: its so hard to rate new routes. the little bit of new route activity i've done, we rated about 2 letter grades below what the climb felt like lesson: sandbag to cover your ass.

 

So that's why the "10b" start completely kicked our ass!

 

yeah that start of P1 is hard but would you consider it harder than P4? P4 felt like 11a to me and martins, so we graded it 10c. blake said 10d and you said 10c. who knows? personally, i prefer the sandbag over the softy.

Edited August 13, 2007 by chucK

[Blake]

Scott: its so hard to rate new routes. the little bit of new route activity i've done, we rated about 2 letter grades below what the climb felt like lesson: sandbag to cover your ass.

 

So that's why the "10b" start completely kicked our ass!

 

yeah that start of P1 is hard but would you consider it harder than P4? P4 felt like 11a to me and martins, so we graded it 10c. blake said 10d and you said 10c. who knows? personally, i prefer the sandbag over the softy.

 

I think .10b for the first pitch because I was able to onsight it and I was pretty run-down at that point in our trip. However... if that crux is .10c, then the first pitch is 5.8

Edited August 13, 2007 by chucK

[scott_johnston]

Scott: its so hard to rate new routes. the little bit of new route activity i've done, we rated about 2 letter grades below what the climb felt like lesson: sandbag to cover your ass.

 

So that's why the "10b" start completely kicked our ass!

 

yeah that start of P1 is hard but would you consider it harder than P4? P4 felt like 11a to me and martins, so we graded it 10c. blake said 10d and you said 10c. who knows? personally, i prefer the sandbag over the softy.

 

I think .10b for the first pitch because I was able to onsight it and I was pretty run-down at that point in our trip. However... if that crux is .10c, then the first pitch is 5.8

 

Yikes; Am I missing something here or did you guys change climbs in the middle of a thread? If we are talking Gato Negro here then I thougth folks were in pretty good aggreement that the first pitch was 5.8 and the 4th pitch was around mid 5.10 not the 10 plus we wimpy first ascensionists graded it. Honestly I thought it felt like 5.11 but I am really bad a wide cracks that are full of loose shit, but that's just me and Larry talked some sense into me after I stopped shaking. Help me out here or do I need to completely redo the topo??

 

BTW: The photos above are not Hardy N buttress but are a new route on a sub peak of pk8252 which is along Silver Star's E ridge. We called it Varden Creek Spire as it was disappintingly seperated from 8252 by a deep gash that we didn't want to deal with. Rock quality is the best of anything I have climbed in the WA pass area. Quite similar stone to N Ridge of Stuart but with more lichen of course. If anyone is interested I could post a TR about it.

 

Scott

 

N Arete of Varden Ck Spire:

 

N Buttress of Hardy

Edited August 10, 2007 by scott_johnston

[tyree]

Dude!- what are you waiting for? Post a TR already...

Moses will approve I'm sure

[Sol]

yeah scott, we did change climbs in the middle of the thread. for some reason we decided to debate the ratings of the NE face of Main Gunisght in the middle of this gato negro thread. post a tr dood, that looks like a quality face. have you guys at NCMG heard of any repeats on hardy?

Edited August 13, 2007 by chucK