[TR] Mount Rexford - West Ridge 7/25/2007

[suge]

Trip: Mount Rexford - West Ridge

 

Date: 7/25/2007

 

Trip Report:

A long, more detailed report can be found at:

 

http://www.pierce.ctc.edu/faculty/cwillett/local/rexford/index.html

 

Originally we had planned to climb the east ridge of Rexford, but various issues came up that put onto the more moderate (ie, shorter) West Ridge. The climb is excellent, and the North and South Nesakwatch towers would make for a great extended jaunt on solid granite. The logging road leading to the "trailhead" is in awful condition and you will need a high clearance, 4 wheel drive vehicle to make it. We drove in a Honda Element and scraped the underside very badly in places.

 

The "trail" runs through a clear cut for a while, then gains forest and becomes more distinct. However, it is fairly brutal, gaining 900 meters in about 3 kilometers. It is listed in 103 Hikes in BC, and has the steepest grade of anything in there. We found ample camping near the base of the towers and melted snow (plenty still) for liquid. Time up was about 4 hours from the car.

 

The climb is mostly 4th class and route finding is easy, but the terrain is very exposed and the 4th class stuff requires some technical work, but nothing serious. Some might rope up for certain segments. There are cairns to help you find your way at various stategic points. After a lot of 4th class, you get to the top of the false summit. Traverse easily around the right side of a small gendarme to where you can sling a boulder for an anchor. The pitch to the summit is short and features a fun chimney. Dubious tat on top can be rapped on. There is a strong, recent cordellette on the false summit that will get you down to some more tat (recent), which will get you down to where downclimbing is easy. 4-5 hours up from camp to the summit.

 

Here are some photos, all courtesy of M. Bennett.

 

Our camp site. From left to right, North Nesakwatch, South Nesakwatch, and Rexford (false summit in the clouds).

 

 

A view of the west ridge, which is the massive, prominent ridge running off to the right side of the below photo. Route finding is easy and there are multiple ways up.

 

 

Baker in alpenglow.

 

 

The summit of South Nesakwatch. There is an off width crack to be negotiated, but it can barely be made out in the photo below.

 

 

Vancouver Bob atop the false summit. We scrambled here, but the main face of it looked pretty challenging (and fun!).

 

 

Me leading the 5.5 chimney up to the true summit.

 

 

The chimney has plenty of hands, but required a little muscle to get out of, as the hands disappear a little on the exit until you get your feet fairly high. The others had an easier time of it.

 

 

There is a cross and summit register on top.

 

 

Bob had a hot date back in Vancouver, so we didn't spend a lot of time lollygagging on the summit.

 

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Most of the route can be scrambled via airy 4th class terrain. Some may want to belay a few sections or have a handline set. We had 1 short (7 meter!) roped pitch below the false summit. The only real roping you need to do is from the false to the true summit. I put in a small nut, and a #1 and #2 camalot on the way up. Bring slings and rap rings to augment dubious tat.

 

Approach Notes:

The logging road from the Riverside campground on the Chilliwack river is in really awful shape due to active logging. You will need a high clearance 4 wheel drive vehicle. If you have a passenger car, park at Riverside and walk up the 5.6 kilometers. Or choose a different peak. The climbers trail can be followed with care, and improves after you leave the clear cut. It is always steep, however, and there was a lot of suffering on the way down.

[kevbone]

Totally rad pictures! Thanks.

[Rad]

Most excellent. If someone wants a definition of alpine this is it!