Splitter Gear 2 cam and 4 cam...more details.

[Lambone]

I also had the chance to use the same two Splitter Cams, only down in Yosemite. Although I value Erik’s opinion on cams, I thought a more detailed review was in order. At first my impression was similar to Erik’s, but I thought I’d give them a chance. My partner and I took a Two Cam and Four Cam up on the Leaning Tower; I only used them on aid moves, and didn’t get a chance to fall on them. I want to give the Splitter’s a fair review, so here are some of their benefits and drawbacks that I found. I won’t bore you with specks and numbers, if you want those go to their web site ( Splitter Gear web page ), these are the simple design features that I thought were important:

 

Benefits of both styles –

1. They are narrower than any other cams out there.

2. They are lightweight.

3. Can all be placed passively, no need for cam stops.

4. Thin flexible wires, protected with a plastic sheath.

5. Trigger is flexible and won’t “lever” out the cam.

6. They are relatively cheap. A few bucks less than most others.

 

Drawbacks of both –

1. Range isn’t great.

2. Triggers are a bit flimsy and awkward.

 

Two Cam –

This cam works great in shallow placements. The whole thing will fit where you may only get two Alien lobes in. It uses a narrow gauge cable that is pretty flexible, and shouldn’t lever a cam out of a pin scar when weighted. The lobes act as their own cam stops, so it could never become inverted, or over-camed. Also, the trigger wires are not made out of braided wire, so they wont ever frey or break. I thought the Two Cam works best in shallow cracks, and pods. It fits nicely in finger cracks/pockets and tapered nut placements, but doesn’t work well in flaring grooves. Since the cam lobes are not independent, they can’t modulate to “fill out” a flaring placement. The trigger wires are malleable and become bent easily, they are a pain to straighten. Also, the trigger seemed a bit flimsy and awkward, I’d be worried about the durability over time.

 

Four Cam –

I thought this cam was cool because unlike most conventional 4 cams, it doesn’t have a pivot point that the cam will walk on. For instance, my other 4 cams tend to pivot on the two middle cam lobes and spin upside down; you’ve all seen this. Also it’s narrow, you get the same width as a TCU, but with 4 Cam lobes. This unit has a standard wire trigger, which unlike the Two Cam, doesn’t get all bent out of shape. Again, there is no need for cam stops. This one also works better in flares than the Two Cam, because each lobe acts independently. The main cable gauge is thicker, and specks show these have more holding power than the Two Cam. The only thing I didn’t like about the 4 Cam was the range, I just couldn’t seem to get it to fit. I’m sure this is just a matter of getting used to the sizes.

 

Overall I liked the cams, but I was reluctant to use them. Mostly because I like the gear I’m used to and am resistant to change. Also be cause I couldn’t seem to get the sizes figured out. (side note: why doesn’t someone set a standard on cam colors!) If some one asked me if they should by them for a Yosemite trip, I’d have to say, “Get a set of Offset Aliens first, then think about the Splitter’s.” Yet I think that both of these Splitter Gear Cams have distinct advantages over standard camming units. I’m sure they will gain popularity and acceptance with time. Now if only they could come up with a Two Cam for flaring pin scars, I’d be sold.

 

[ 05-13-2002, 09:39 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

[Lambone]

pinggg oooooohhhhhhhhh ssssshhhhhhhhiiitttt...

[erik]

well i am going to take them free climbing this weekend and force myself to place them.....

 

i didnt give them too much consideration, probabyl cuase i am biased against them. especially since the big shot from the co. comes by and talks his shit and then never responds.

 

maybe i let all my fatness fall on one, with a bomber tcu placement right below it of course!!!