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Posted

And using ice tools is not a form of aid? whatever...

 

I like going sans-leashes on TR or stuff easier than 3. It adds a new element, and definately changes the style of climbing (i.e. you have to use your feet differently also). Plus it's good training for the old forearms.

 

However, I think its silly to say that leashless is better than non leashless. It's like saying I'm better cause I did Thin Fingers with no chalk or tape!

  • 2 weeks later...
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Posted

Fishstick was seen using leashes on BOTH TOOLS up in Niut Range. [Razz] Also frontpointing on 40 degree snow. Guy has never heard of French technique.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Gee-wiz, I hope a new rating is not created.

"This mixed route is WI 4 in January thru Febuary with leashes. BUT!

It is AI 3+, M4, In March. BUT wait!

It is WI3, 5.5LL,GL ( stands for LeashLess & GloveLess) with no gloves and no leashes.

Then it is considered 5.10DI,LL,WLWUILBO (Dry Ice, LeashLess, WithLightWeightUnInsulatedLeatherBootsOn) in November during a low precip year when the sun was out and that wet spot was dryed up but a hold was broke where there is typical ice but if you reach 3 feet over to your right there is a side pull that some consider to be off route and down grades the whole thing to 5.2 unless the damp spot is there which changes everything.

Then, if the sun is in your eye............don't EVEN get me started."

What were we talking about? o-yeah, the choice is yours because you are free to do what makes you happy in this country.

 

I am curious, about one thing. Are the tools that the leashless, non aiding, non cheating guys using straight shaft, no hook thing for fingers, velcro and or rubber grip free?

Jedi

Posted

did any of you actually ice climbed before? I am reading this and i can't belive the shit you guys pop. yeah leashes, leashes- really who gives a fuck. but so far i did not see anyone even in the rockies getting up on bigger stuff without the help of the leashes. just use andeoid and if you need you can climb leashless or you can clip them and use leashes- simple really. and as far as drytooling- on hard routes like m8 or 9 you are going to fall of not because you are pumped, but because your hook did not stick. by the way- you guys pop so much shit here- if you actually climbed you'd know these things.

Posted

Right on!!! think about ten years ago when people use embilical cords attached to there tools... no one rested on them they just used them as a back up now today if you see someone using embilical cords you would laugh at them its just going to be the need tread

leashless

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