goldenchild Posted July 13, 2007 Share Posted July 13, 2007 For someone quite new to mountaineering and wanting to tackle Wedge via NorthEast arete, what technical gear should I bring. The obvious I know are crampons, rope and ice axe. TIA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tlinn Posted July 13, 2007 Share Posted July 13, 2007 you don't need much for the NE arete. maybe some snow stakes if you are feeling a little nervous but you can probably kick some nice big steps up it right now. crampons, axe, rope, glacier gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XXX Posted July 13, 2007 Share Posted July 13, 2007 For someone quite new to mountaineering and wanting to tackle Wedge via NorthEast arete, what technical gear should I bring. The obvious I know are crampons, rope and ice axe. TIA I think the steepest sections are maybe 55 degrees? Some of the faces are quite steep, but u should be fine! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goldenchild Posted July 13, 2007 Author Share Posted July 13, 2007 thanks folks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted July 13, 2007 Share Posted July 13, 2007 For someone quite new to mountaineering and wanting to tackle Wedge via NorthEast arete, what technical gear should I bring. The obvious I know are crampons, rope and ice axe. TIA I think the steepest sections are maybe 55 degrees? Some of the faces are quite steep, but u should be fine! you will have a very hard time finding anything over 45 degrees on wedge ne arete, unless you are seriously off route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckouba Posted July 17, 2007 Share Posted July 17, 2007 Goldenchild, HERE is a TR from when I climbed it with my dad in '03. I'd imagine the snowpack is different now (did it in mid-August) but that should simplify things for you. Pics from the trip start HERE . This is a phenominal area and an incredibly aesthetic route. If you think you'll be comfortable on it, grab some pickets and give it a go. If it's more than you bargained for, the route is completely reversable without consequence- barring failng snow bridges, etc. Give it a go if you're up for the effort! Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KeithT Posted July 26, 2007 Share Posted July 26, 2007 Has anyone been up to Wedgemount Lake and/or done Wedge yet this year? I am mainly interested in knowing how low the snow line is, camping conditions at the lake and conditions for crossing the glacier? I am heading up Aug 3 and am expecting lots of snow, but perhaps not still at the lake level given the hot weather and rain we've been having. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigtree Posted July 26, 2007 Share Posted July 26, 2007 KeithT, I attempted via north arete in May but got weathered off @ 8 600'. There was more snow than I've ever seen before starting about 1/3 of the way up from the TH. Lots of melt since then for sure but suspect that more persists than in this August (year unknown). Good luck. I'll be heading back for a solo attempt myself Aug 11/12. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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