JohnGo Posted July 8, 2007 Posted July 8, 2007 Hi folks, We're considering a climb of Shuksan N face on July 28-29. In the opinion of those who know this route, is that too late in the season or will it still be in shape then? I saw some photos on the web of a decent sized bergschrund on the N face. Does this ever melt out to become impassible? We plan to bring a few screws and 2 tools if need be. B'lay On, johngo Quote
letsroll Posted July 9, 2007 Posted July 9, 2007 Bump. Was thinking about doing the route this weekend. But if Adams is any indicator things are melting out fast!!! Also is the Log crossing still around?? Quote
philfort Posted July 9, 2007 Posted July 9, 2007 I don't think Adams is all that much of an indicator - the snowpack is a lot healthier in the North Cascades. Quote
SPS Posted July 10, 2007 Posted July 10, 2007 No no no no no no no. The route may still be in, but the approach is BRUTAL without snow on it. Think slide alder. Think Devil's Club . Think steep slopes. The two or so miles took several hours and was the most unpleasant crap I've ever gone through in the Cascades. Make sure the approach is totally snow covered when you go in. Perhaps there was a better way but... Quote
philfort Posted July 10, 2007 Posted July 10, 2007 (edited) Search this site for beta on the approach - I know it's been discussed before. I've done both the all-on-snow approach from the ski resort, and also the snow-free approach from the end of the logging road (drop down to creek, climb up to ridge). While the snow approach is much more pleasant, there is hardly any bushwhacking if you do the other approach correctly (there is a patch of devil's club and dense shrubery near the creek). It's in a dry streambed, and then mostly open forest. Very steep in spots though - like you might want wear crampons in the woods in spots. It took us about 5 hours, but others do it faster (we were carrying ski gear and it was ludicrously hot, like 80F at sunrise). Edited July 10, 2007 by philfort Quote
JohnGo Posted July 10, 2007 Author Posted July 10, 2007 Thanks. I have searched all posts for the last few years and have full beta/details on the approach. My concern is the actual route conditions. Any thoughts, summer Shuksan experts? C'mon, I know you're out there. Quote
skykilo Posted July 10, 2007 Posted July 10, 2007 If it helps you at all, I'm considering a ski descent within the next few weeks. The route is fine for climbing year-round. It actually becomes a much more interesting climb in the fall. Here is a November photo to illustrate: Quote
hoodie Posted July 11, 2007 Posted July 11, 2007 North face today. Doable with a single tool, on snow all the way. Little gully that links the lower to upper portions of the face (not visible in this pic) could melt out before too long and make things more interesting. BTW, turns on the upper face were very very nice this morning. Nice and smooth w/o suncupping till you hit the lower glacial-ish portion. Quote
JohnGo Posted July 11, 2007 Author Posted July 11, 2007 Hoodie, Very nice photos, thanks a bunch! Your ski outing looked like Big Fun. Congrats on a nice climb. Quote
letsroll Posted July 11, 2007 Posted July 11, 2007 Yo Hoodie did you around to the top of the vally or is the log crossing still there?? Buttery goodness Quote
northvanclimber Posted July 17, 2007 Posted July 17, 2007 (edited) So my buddy and I tried to do the NW arete on shuksan this last weekend via the approach described in alpine select(this approach takes the logging road partway up the road to baker, goes along the clearcut down to the river and then up the ridge). unfortunately due to border delays, and more importantly, a vague and slightly incorrect description of the approach in AS [approach 55], by the time we found the correct route we had to turn around cause it was getting late in the day. so, to clarify the approach for anyone trying to access either the NW arete or the north face on shuksan, here's a little info so you don't get lost like we did: 1) you'll notice that the logging road is perfectly driveable, so when you pull of baker hwy, keep going. 2) from the description in AS, you'd think the road just ends at a certain point and you'd just park and start walking. not so! Instead, at 2.6km down the road after the road makes a left turn, you'll notice a small spur road on the right. you can park here, or drive a short way down this spur road. If you miss this turn off, you'll find that the main logging road continues past this point, up a slightly steep hill (no go for 2WD?), and then stops abruptly. 3) back on the spur road, start hiking through intermittent nasty spots of slide alder. after a while (20 mins or so? I can't remember exactly), in one of the clearings in between spats of slide alder and various other nasty foliage, start looking for the clearcut that drops off to your left. the clearcut is not immediately obvious from the road if you're heading down the trail at full speed like we were, so keep your eyes open. from the clearcut, the approach is obvious down the slope to the river. 4) if you miss the clearcut you'll find that the road bed quickly disappears and you'll have a bi*ch of a time fighting through slide alder, etc., your parter will get poked in the eye with a tree branch and you'll quickly discover that you're not having a good time. sorry if this has been posted somewhere else, but it bears repeating. cheers. Edited July 17, 2007 by northvanclimber Quote
skykilo Posted July 17, 2007 Posted July 17, 2007 North Face, Saturday July 14th: Best skiing conditions I've had on the route. Seems like it should be a worthy ski for a few weeks yet.... Quote
JohnGo Posted July 17, 2007 Author Posted July 17, 2007 Skykilo, Excelente photos, thanks for the inspiring beta. Looks like you had a great trip, congrats! Johngo Quote
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