Leuthold, conditions, and how late in season.

[gregorysl]

At the risk of getting verbally abused for suggesting crazy stuff...

 

How late in the season is "reasonable" for leuthold?

 

Also, how crevassed is it on the way over from the saddle? Is it reasonably safe to solo?

 

I may round up a partner, but if I can't, I might consider it solo, depending on others' thoughts.

 

Finally, any beta from anyone on the route recently?

 

TIA

-Greg

[ivan]

no abuse, but the time of year for luetholds is pretty much over - there's a pic of it in the hood conditions thread and it looks like an old-lady making a big steaming brown coil - some folks are into that kinda thing though, so if you count yourself one of the "enlightened"...

 

if you haven't done the cooper spur yet, go do that now - it'll probably still be good for a couple of weeks and you can drive up to cloud cap now - it's a fun solo w/ plenty of heady exposure

[MtnBoy]

1. The only way to know for sure is to go and take a look at it. The approach you can see from the saddle. The chute you can see from the base, etc. It usually forms a deep runnle late in the season that turns into a bowling alley. Look for evidence of this before committing.

 

2. There are a number of stress crevasses that form. The safest ones, are ones you can see. It would be preferable to wait until earlier in the season.

 

3. I would go up to the saddle and see who is giong over. Perhaps you can share a rope. Often people camp at the saddle for the climb the next morning. If not, cut back over and check out the West Crater Rim or dog route.

[RogerJ]

no abuse, but the time of year for luetholds is pretty much over - there's a pic of it in the hood conditions thread and it looks like an old-lady making a big steaming brown coil - some folks are into that kinda thing though, so if you count yourself one of the "enlightened"...

 

if you haven't done the cooper spur yet, go do that now - it'll probably still be good for a couple of weeks and you can drive up to cloud cap now - it's a fun solo w/ plenty of heady exposure

 

It's going to be a long time before I can climb or ski Leuthold's.

 

-r