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tlinn

first ascent [TR] Cathedral Park, BC - Macabre to Grimface Traverse + possible F.A. 7/1/2007

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Trip: Cathedral Park, BC - Macabre to Grimface Traverse + possible F.A.

 

Date: 7/1/2007

 

Trip Report:

Quick photo TR of a trip to Cathedral Park over the weekend. I had heard great things about the Matriarch to Grimface Traverse and with the weekend forecast looking soggy for Canada Day on the coast we decided that we would head to the dry side of the Cascades and hope for better weather. First day we hiked in via Wall Creek. The Wall Creek approach is highly recommended. It's a cruisy 4 hour affair to the meadows with excellent camping and bouldering! There are a lot of blowdowns but it's still a great approach.

The next day we went up to look for things to climb on Matriarch, Macabre, or Grimface. We were looking for a nice line to climb, and preferably something that might be unclimbed. We didn't have the beckey guide so we were going by what we had seen on bivouac and the pages I had cut out of the Fairley Guide. The description in Fairley is vague at best and didn't help much.

The buttress just to the right of the South Buttress looked quite nice and we thought it might be unclimbed so we decided to give it a go. The climb was 8 pitches long and mostly easy except for a very short but difficult roof we rated at 5.11a. Most of the climbing was pretty easy 5.6, 5.7, 5.8 type of stuff. We finished the climb just below the bolt ladder on Macabre. From the summit of Macabre we continued on the traverse to Grimface. With the exception of two rappels we kept the rope in the pack the rest of the day. We were back in camp a few hours later.

 

Nick.JPG

 

deaconshoulder.JPG

 

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nickclimbing.JPG

 

nickroof.JPG

 

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sarahnicksummit.JPG

 

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nickfire.JPG

 

Gear Notes:

set of nuts, full rack of cams from #0 tcu to #3 camalot.

 

Approach Notes:

Wall Creek Trail from the Ashnola River Road

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Good work...and Happy Birthday Canada!!! Nicely done. We were going to play on some humps on the north Island, but were sogged off. Thought about taking a ferry and heading east, but it was much easier to grab the qayaqs and play with the seals in Baynes Ch.

 

Well done, gotta love the Silmilkameen territory.

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