Finger Pain

[Mark O'Neal]

I originally posted in the Newbie forum but was redirected here.

 

I'm new to climbing regularly. A couple of months ago I started climbing at a gym once a week for about 2 hours at a time climbing/belaying. Each time after climbing my fingers are slightly swollen and aching for a couple of days. Recently, my middle finger (on both hands) from the middle knuckle back to the top of the hand are particularly sensitive on the underside for several days. It doesn't hurt if I crimp a hold but it hurts like hell if I full on grab it.

 

Is this normal or a technique problem? Or am I over doing it? I suspect I'm over doing it but figured I'd ask around. Are there any remedies/exercises for this type of issue or do I just need to take it easier? Thanks for any advise

[layton]

Sounds like tendinitis. You're body is reacting to the huge demands you're putting on your poor fingers. Some folks can get away with it...some folks can't.

I'd say work on your technique, especially your footwork, and keeping a looser grip. For now, avoid crimping and pockets with those finger.

 

Also, warm up! Not only on easy routes, but maybe go for a little job or something before.

 

I'd also say that your forearms need a little training, so work on wrist curls - so your wrist can do more of the work than your fingers.

 

Some rehab exercises besides wrist curls would be reverse wrist curls, and finger extensions. To do finger extensions, find a rubberband with enough tension and put it around your fingers. Now open up your hand. Try for like 20-30 or so reps 2x/day.

Also, ice ice ice ice. 20min on 60 off. AVOID NSAIDS like ibuprofen because they weaken the damaged tendons/ligs even though they decrease inflammation. Bromelain is the best anti-inflammatory w/o side-effects. Just try and take it on an empty stomch since it's also a digestion aid and you'd waste it helping to digest your dinner.

 

Sorry 'bout the finger issue. You'll pull through!

[layton]

Oh, and in the meantime, tape your fingers while you climb (should've been my 1st comment)

[Mark O'Neal]

Yea, I kinda figured that's what was going on. I have been trying to work on my footwork, but those routes at the gym seem to always have the parts where you need a death grip with your hands. The bouldering seems worse for this. I've been trying to strengthen my forearms with chins ups and dead hangs on the chin up bar, but I'll experiment with your suggestions.

 

What would taping my fingers do and how should I do it? Is it a grip improvement or a finger support thing?

Edited June 14, 2007 by Mark O'Neal

[layton]

No it's only for support until your fingers are healed.

 

Here's what Google Images shows

 

[Mark O'Neal]

So should I be taping the spaces between each knuckle or should I be taping the spaces and the knuckle to keep the finger from bending?

Edited June 14, 2007 by Mark O'Neal

[layton]

make an "X" across the underside of your knuckle with a thinner strip of tape and have the tails of that wrap around above and below your knuckle.