Nailing on Clean Routes

[Don_Chicho]

I did some searches and didn't see anything on this particular topic. Sorry if it is a repeat.

 

Heading down to Yosemite this Summer and I was wondering about hammering ethics for the walls there. My belief is that if a route is said to go clean according to the topo/guidebooks you should do everything in your power to not nail and if a pitch (or pitches) is maybe too sketchy (according to you) to do it clean then perhaps you shouldn't be climbing it, right? If you need to get past a certain crux portion, would one get run out of the valley for hammering a couple pins? And say you do it anyway, would you keep them fixed or clean them? What if the route is rated clean with fixed gear? Wondering what you all say because I'd like to not stir the climbing ethics pot down there being an outsider and all. My stance right now is that if I can't do a clean route cleanly then I should retreat for not having the cajones. For those of you that have been down there, what have your experienced been?

[JosephH]

http://www.supertopo.com/forumsearch.html?o=ASC&s=ratings&v=0&cur=0&ftr=hammerless

[Off_White]

Unless you're trying to do a speed ascent, then it seems like ethics don't matter, only speed, so even the hard boys nail things that have gone clean.

 

buncha bigwall howeetz if you ask me.

[fenderfour]

There are a coupld of A1 Lost Arrow placements on the first short pitch of Japanese Gardens. If you have them, a few bongs will fit perfectly in the flake.