Scarpa Charmoz vs Trango S

[Kiwiclimber]

I am looking for some lightweight climbing boots. Planning to use for 1-2 day glacier trips and some easy rock climbing routes. The La Sportiva Trango S seems to be the weapon of choice right now. 2nd Ascent has the Scarpa Charmoz which weigh about the same and are about $35 cheaper. Does any one have any experience with the Scarpa boot.

 

Thanks.

[ericb]

I had the La Sportiva Trangos and I suspect I'm in the minority, but I didn't love them, and took them back. My principal complaint was that the same ankle flex that makes them really good for moderate rockclimbing left something to be desired on hard snow cramponing. I found the flex led to a lot of ankle fatigue/soreness on sustained moderate hard snow traverses where the natural foot motion is to roll to the downhill side. They are also not particularly warm, and although I've heard others say they served them well on glacier routes, I got cold feet.

 

I ended up with the Garmont Tower....similar to the Trango, but slightly heavier, warmer, and better support. If found it works fine on rock up to mid 5th, beyond which I'd opt for rock shoes anyways. If you plan on spending more time on snow vs. rock, something to consider.

[genepires]

another vote for the garmont tower over the trangos. Just a little demo in the store is all the experience I have with the newer trangos but they felt a bit wide while the towers felt like a snugger fit.

 

sorry no experience with the charmoz. I think my bud has them when we went on n ridge baker and he liked his greatly. my towers did very well on that route too.