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Posted

These things look kinda like aliens, with a few tweaks to them. I hope someone sell them!

 

305284-largest_totemcamsone.jpg

 

305289-largest_totemcamstwo.jpg

 

Totem Cam

At first glance, you’re not sure what to think of this smart little unit, but after reading the specs and taking a closer look, you become intrigued. It looks like a cam and acts like a cam, but its got some weird features that make it function completely different from a standard cam.

 

The cam works like a regular cam in most instances, but its unique clip in points where the trigger is allow it to do some different things when placements start to get dicey. For instance, if you can only get two lobes in, no problem, just clip into one side of the cam- then the other two lobes don’t get loaded if you take the whip. Wicked large flare? Place one of these guys- they’ll protect a 31 degree flare.

 

The downside? They’re not available anywhere- the ones pictured here are the only ones in existence.

 

From the SLC outdoor retailer expo this weekend.

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Posted

They're going to have a hard time getting them made in the USA I think. They had a very smooth action and really seemed nice, but I think that the guys who are making them want an aweful lot for something that is not production ready.

 

Somebody brought up the point that they might be too strong for Entrada, and they might just blow rock when you fell on them.

 

At this point though, who knows? It will be cool to see them when there are more than five of them in the world.

Posted

too strong? how would they put any more force on the rock than a normal cam? that still seems like a function of climber's weight, fall factor, belay catch, etc.

 

Your packs look pretty sweet on that same review Graham.

Posted (edited)
too strong? how would they put any more force on the rock than a normal cam? that still seems like a function of climber's weight, fall factor, belay catch, etc.

 

Your packs look pretty sweet on that same review Graham.

They could put more force on the rock if the camming angle were smaller than other cams. This is one way to make a cam that works in flares.

 

So what IS the camming angle on these units?

 

"We have analyzed all the variables carefully and we have designed all Totem Cams to ensure that the SLCD equivalent cam angle is less than 14.1º even in the worst case.

In most placements, however, Totem Cams work with an SLCD equivalent cam angle of almost 12.85º, offering greater holding power."

 

Apparently, the camming angle is variable?

 

The most interesting thing about this design is that the cables bear directly on the inside of the lobes, rather than on the axle. This must increase the outward force regardless of the camming angle. This effect will vary depending on the degree of retraction, and be greatest when the lobes are most retracted.

Edited by catbirdseat
Posted
too strong? how would they put any more force on the rock than a normal cam?

 

you can drill holes in Entrada sandstone with your index finger, so...

 

Yeah. You use spit instead of a drill down there...

 

But some dude with one BTK prothesis who lives in CO thought that they'd create 4 to 6 times more force than a traditional cam due to their unique loading design. As you pull on them, the cable increases the load on the lobes...

Posted

These look pretty awesome, especially the one shot in the video where the cam is being loaded assymetrically to the axel.

 

But, come on. Bounce testing the placements? WTF? I want to see them put their balls out there and take some whippers off these 2 lobe, flare, and assymetric pull placements. If they hold a factor 1.8 fall of a 200lb climber, they will have no problem selling those puppies.

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