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jesse_mason

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Just wondering if any one has had any success on getting on to the glacier (recently)? Iam going back for a second try, first time last year I had some trouble ascending the rock flank, some rockfall and forgotten helmet sent me scurrying. Just wondering how far right of the gulley that descends beside the ice fall did you go. Basically did you go straight up or make a traverse from right to left up some lower angled rubbly rock. The rock I encountered was fairly steep, compact and unprotectable and I found myself climbing some difficult sections in my vegas.

 

Thanks

Jesse

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jesse, i recall heading up the slope at least 100m right of the right edge of the fall-line from the glacier ice-cliffs. we followed a gully rather than scrambling the face, which was bushy. i seem to recall taking LEFT forks in the gully, and there were certainly short sections (up to 10m) of at least mid-5th, rather exposed - just boulder it out. eventually you emerge into heathery terrain (maybe 200m elevation gain?), and u can traverse hard left to reach the ice.

good luck.

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Well went for another go at it, came away empty handed again!! AD+ I doubt it, Soloing mid fifth on very exposed terrain 100m above the deck is slightly more commiting in my mind. The guide makes no mention of any technical rock at all, just shows a dotted line ascending the rock flank and says "ascend rock to galcier". The dotted line is no where near represnting the gulley which runs left to right and has some leftwards branches high up the wall( this has to be it since the only one i havent climbed yet).I once again was able to climb about 100m+ and get forced too far left too soon and end up UNDER the icefall and proceed to shit my pants. I climbed the rock flank twice, second time i went up a gullley further to the right and ended up being cliffed out up high again. The face i was climbing the first time had no bushes at all, just smooth crackless rock.

 

The guide says 1.5-2hrs to base of route from end of forested road, am i reading this correct? It takes me 45 min to reach the moraines, 30min to reach the ice fall and 4 hours to solo up and down it twice.

 

We actually laughed our heads off all day, 100m away from ice falling which was quite regular and soloing in our vegas and full packs we would often look at each other and say hey "just boulder it out", haha. talk to you later Don

 

everyone else should give it a try its a classic [Roll Eyes]

 

jesse

 

[ 09-25-2002, 06:03 PM: Message edited by: jesse mason ]

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Couple of things to keep in mind if you are attempting any routes on N.Face. When approaching glacier the guide says climb morain to shoulder stay right. You will approach up a low angled polished tongue of pink rock and you breach the wall almost directly above this, near trees to the right(even though there appears to be easier ground left, there isn't, see above). In addition the first turn off the P. Meadows road is actually onto the Lillouet FSR not Hurley FSR as indicated in the guide. Once on Lillouet FSR second turn off is the Hurley and then Upper Hurley FSR. If you are planning to camp at the end of the logging road (you need 4wd hc) bring a tent, it is serious bear country and area stinks like poo. One more thing, if you plan to soak it up at Meager Hotsprings down the road it now closes at 6:00pm and will cost you $5. to get past the redneck.

 

Good Luck

Toby

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My memory seems to agree with Don on this one. You certainly go up a gully which at times might be described as compact and occassionally thought provoking.

 

My biggest memory of our trip was a serac fall that covered everything within 50 feet of the lake with about 5 feet of debris. Just huge!

 

GB

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