Fence_Sitter Posted September 8, 2002 Posted September 8, 2002 lookin at he 5.7 route on i think it is the north face of the lion...has anyone done this route? cant tell how much 5.7 will be involved and how much pro to bring...thanks in advance Quote
Dru Posted September 9, 2002 Posted September 9, 2002 yeah dude, go and do it. take a lawnmower and a trowel. Quote
Fence_Sitter Posted September 9, 2002 Author Posted September 9, 2002 that fun eh? i prefer napalm for my "alpine grooming" excercises... thanks fo rthe heads up as per vegetation... Quote
dR Posted September 9, 2002 Posted September 9, 2002 check out the routes for winter climbs...the right conditions can yield a great climb if you can time it right... Quote
dR Posted September 9, 2002 Posted September 9, 2002 check out the lions for winter climbs...if you can catch the time when good conditons prevail there are some good climbs to be had... Quote
Fence_Sitter Posted September 9, 2002 Author Posted September 9, 2002 yeah taht's what i heard...just looking for some fun while the weather is quasi-decent...tho today was shitty...its supposed to get better soon...thanks for the tip DR Quote
Don_Serl Posted September 10, 2002 Posted September 10, 2002 fence sitter, go do it, it's nowhere near as bushy as the northeast buttress - which has to be an all-time classic for west coast mixed: you know, rock and cedar! some tips: low down, you might find you'll end up climbing the right-slanting gully leading into the gut behind the NW shoulder. this is crumbly and unprotectable, but not too hard, and u don't have to get too far up it (60m-80m). i once tried gaining the 1st ledge directly by climbing at about the shadow-sun line on fairley p24, and couldn't do it; looks more attractive than the gully, but very compact rock, wet here and there, no pegs, no balls... then traverse WAAAAY left (you can actually easily walk all the way to the NE butt). center section: when in doubt, go right. well marked on fairley p24. cross a little rib to get into the hollow (probably no snowpatch this time of year) in the center of the face. exit this on the extreme right - i've tried getting out the top, and had to back down. a GOOD (unnamed) local pitched quite a long ways from a pitch or so directly above the hollow way back when. upper section: 2 -3 pitches, again keep drifting right, don't fight the terrain. nice corners, blocks, and ribs, blended with heather and a bit of bush - but i recall not much of it, and not interfering with the progress. continue thus all the way to the upper W ridge. then it's easy bush to the top. p.s. as for doing it in winter, talk is cheap. there haven't exactly been line-ups... Quote
Don_Serl Posted September 10, 2002 Posted September 10, 2002 dR, i don't want it to seem like i'm slamming u for the suggestion that winter is a good time to climb the lions. there IS good climbing to be had, early december onwards. mostly that's on the south and west sides tho; hasn't seemed to be interest in doing more exciting things since the '70s ended. and there are HARD things to be climbed on the east face. plus getting there is no picnic. Quote
Dru Posted September 10, 2002 Posted September 10, 2002 you could back off the NW buttress direct start like some tough guys did not too long ago... Quote
Greg_W Posted September 10, 2002 Posted September 10, 2002 I saw the topic and thought, "Lions. There's no way Scot'Marmot would climb there, he's scared of cougars!" Â Greg W Quote
Dru Posted September 10, 2002 Posted September 10, 2002 In winter it takes 3-4 hours to get to the climbing on the Lions and 1.5 hours to get to the climbing on Harvey.... hmmm tough call. And that's with 8 hour days! Quote
dR Posted September 12, 2002 Posted September 12, 2002 Don, no hard feelings...I guess i should have stressed my point more that if you could catch it when good conditions prevail...this may seem a little light, it is a hearty approach in winter with dwindling hours of light...i was also responding to a posting by fence sitter (bad pun there) that he was looking for things to climb in the coast range (things not done all the time) in the winter as he is up here for school during the season...onwards and upwards... Quote
Dr.Hook Posted October 26, 2002 Posted October 26, 2002 quote: it's nowhere near as bushy as the northeast buttress - which has to be an all-time classic for west coast mixed: you know, rock and cedar! Went and soloed that a few days ago via the Howe Sound Crest Trail, inspired by Dru's write up on bivouac (thanks Dru) but will never do it again. It can only be described as vertical bushwacking My only suggestion would be to wait for a good dry spell otherwise your looking at climbing a mud staircase. Quote
Dru Posted October 28, 2002 Posted October 28, 2002 or wait till it freezes. mud holds spectres good when frozen i hear. Quote
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