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Posted

Trip Report:

Trip: Paulina Falls Ice - Right Side of Main Falls

 

Date: 1/15/2007

 

Trip Report:

 

Not sure if this would be better in the Oregon forum or the Ice Climbing forum, so I put it in both. Hope that's alright...

 

We skiied into Paulina Falls on MLK day to check out the ice after a few days of cold, and it was pretty nice! This was my first time on waterfall ice, and it had been a few years since my friend, Troy, had climbed ice, so we just TRed the right (south) side of the main (north) falls.

 

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Insane landscape!

 

 

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Troy rapping down in.

 

 

Not being an ice climber, I'm not sure of the quality of it all, but we had a hell of a good time! It was fairly easy climbing, I assume, felt like about 5.8 on rock (if that's even a valid comparison). Anyone know about what this climb might be rated on the WI scale?

 

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Me topping out.

 

 

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Jen looking solid.

 

 

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Ruth gives it a try!

 

 

The ice was wide enough to allow two different routes squeezed in there, although the routes were pretty short. It was quite dry for most of the day, drier than I had anticipated. The smaller south falls looked in, too, although it wasn't as convenient to set up a TR there.

 

The four of us climbed until about 4:30 when the warm sun left us, then we boogied out under the crimson sky. I think Jen and I are hooked, although we kind of live in the wrong place to enjoy it very often... Anyone been up this week after a bit of warmer weather?

 

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Posted

Yeah, G-spot, I figure if they get in the way I can just sever them with my frontpoints. Did I mention that I'm a newb?

 

BTW, there's an article in the Bend Bulletin about ice climbing today. Nothing too exciting, but alright. I actually read the sports page!

Posted

We just used daisy chains as umbilicals, and leashes as leashes. Is it pretty standard to only use umbilicals or leashes? I was just pretty much going with what my buddy Troy did, but he's not super experienced and hasn't been out in quite some time. All I know was that I wasn't planning on dropping a tool 'cause there wasn't much for easier ways out of the canyon...

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