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West Butttress o' South Nesakwatch

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Made a daytrip Saturday up to the Nesak Spires with "these are my private crag!!! [Mad] trespassers will be chainsawed" Shaun Neufeld. Shaun pointed out his previously completed lines for the forthcoming topo (there is a beta tester version in the new routes book at MEC).


After waiting out a rainstorm that came in out of nowhere we climbed the west buttress of South Illusion just left of the Rexford-Nesakwatch gully.


1) begin in a heathery bay and climb over a short overhang and up behind a pinnacle. Climb slanting seams on right wall to a big flake and splitter crack to a tiny ledge below an offwidth. 40m 5.8


2) climb low-angle fist/OW (3.5 Camalot size) to heather ledges, trend left up these then up short finger and hand cracks to a grassy ledge below the ominous flake. 40m 5.8


3) climb left side of flake up an overhanging stemming chimney [Eek!] with a leaning offwidth in the left wall [Eek!] Good left knee jams [Roll Eyes] . Pull out over an overhanging chockstone then up easier corner to top of flake, up 10m splitter hand crack to ledge belay 50m 5.10b? (who can rate offwidths properly anyways)... this was supposed to be my lead but I made Shaun lead it [big Grin] cause it looked scary - and IT WAS!


4) mantle up behind a large detached flake, check out short roof cracks out to the left, then climb up bottoming crack and sketch over black-lichened slab to top of buttress, 30m 5.7 You can unrope here.


5-6ish) wander up 3rd class scrambling along top of W face to the summit. The summit block is kinda high to boulder up and features a 5.7 OW on south side and a much harder OW on the north side.


Beware of ravens swooping by and pretending to be falling rocks in order to make you flinch.


On our way out Shaun also climbed a 45m 11b finger crack on a crag near the N-S spire col.


And we saw two snafflehounds either fighting or getting it on [sNAFFLEHOUND][sNAFFLEHOUND] in the boulder fields.

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I would be scared of encountering the business end of Shaun's Husqvarna if I was a poacher planning to go up there and climb any of the other unclimbed lines without permission. [big Grin]

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here is a picture -


west buttress is just left of the gully at right.

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