jesse_mason Posted July 19, 2002 Posted July 19, 2002 Has anyone climbed the white dyke on Edge peak. If so, did you need a rope, and which way did you descend? thanks Jesse Quote
Dr.Hook Posted July 19, 2002 Posted July 19, 2002 Do not even think of soloing the white dyke, you better take me. Quote
salbrecher Posted July 19, 2002 Posted July 19, 2002 http://www.bivouac.com/TripPg.asp?rq=Pg&TripId=1471 Quote
RedMonk Posted July 19, 2002 Posted July 19, 2002 now i just want clarification cause i have had differing opinions on this; is blanshard THE summit of golden ears, cause i was under the impression that it was... Quote
salbrecher Posted July 19, 2002 Posted July 19, 2002 Blanshard Peak (Blanshard Needle) Height: 1560 m (5118 ft) British Columbia is its own mountain. Quote
jesse_mason Posted July 19, 2002 Author Posted July 19, 2002 salbrecher, that link is supposed to answer what for me? I can figure out how to get down pretty easy, but i would rather not lug a rope up there if i dont need one. thanks jesse Quote
dR Posted August 13, 2002 Posted August 13, 2002 I climbed the white dyke a number of years ago...nice route, pretty clean and solid...4th at the most but primarily 3rd class...did not rope up...but we did bring one with us having not done the route before and had no feedback from others...i seem to recall the lack of protection possiblities and we were feeling good about moving fast and safe w/o the rope out...we came off edge by easily downclimbing from the chockstone below the summit and traversing on the west side of the connecting 'ridge' towards golden ears...there was one tricky spot but otherwise easy... Quote
jesse_mason Posted August 14, 2002 Author Posted August 14, 2002 Thanks dr. for the info. Jesse Quote
dR Posted August 20, 2002 Posted August 20, 2002 jesse, i was just on edge sunday, have some beta about the descent...up_to_date ideas anyways... Quote
Dr.Hook Posted October 16, 2002 Posted October 16, 2002 Okay so we went up to climb the white dyke today and had a superb day in the hills. It was our first time to the area, outside of a winter foray a few years back. Route was straight forward with minor difficulties. As previously suggested the dyke goes at 3rd class with a couple of 4th class steps low down. Nice holds on solid rock, rope wasn't necessary. From the shoulder of Edge we bailed on the summit, the climbing didn't look that aesthetic and timing was an issue. We rapped a gully just down and left from the shoulder when facing east (thanks dR) and continued through to Golden Ears and Panorama Ridge. Car to car 11 hours. Beautiful day, couldn't ask for more. Quote
Dru Posted October 16, 2002 Posted October 16, 2002 If a rope wasn't necessary what did you rappel on? Quote
jesse_mason Posted October 16, 2002 Author Posted October 16, 2002 (If a rope wasn't necessary what did you rappel on?) Are you bored Dru, or is that a legitimate qeustion? What we rapped on was a ROPE, which we brought because the almighty dru said "Jesse bring a Rope!" We rapped because we dragged this thing all the way up there and figured we better go ahead and use it, we could have easily downclimbed around the gulley or downclimbed the gulley itself, not a big deal. I read your posts on blanshard on bivouac, you dont need a rope for the normal route on that either as well the gate opens at 7am and not 8 as you mention. Have you climbed the white dyke before? See ya around jesse Quote
Dr.Hook Posted October 16, 2002 Posted October 16, 2002 Pardon me hairsplitters. Let me clarify for those who couldn't figure it out: rope was not necessary for the climb, but yes, handy for the rappel. Quote
dR Posted October 17, 2002 Posted October 17, 2002 sounds like you guys had a sweet day, killer weather too...luego... Quote
Dru Posted October 17, 2002 Posted October 17, 2002 quote: Originally posted by jesse mason: (If a rope wasn't necessary what did you rappel on?) Are you bored Dru, or is that a legitimate qeustion? What we rapped on was a ROPE, which we brought because the almighty dru said "Jesse bring a Rope!" We rapped because we dragged this thing all the way up there and figured we better go ahead and use it, we could have easily downclimbed around the gulley or downclimbed the gulley itself, not a big deal. I read your posts on blanshard on bivouac, you dont need a rope for the normal route on that either as well the gate opens at 7am and not 8 as you mention. Have you climbed the white dyke before? See ya around jesse I hate to tell you this, but they change the time the gate opens with the season. Hee hee I made you take that useless rope all the way up there SUCKA!! Quote
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