Guided Rainier climb. Worth it?

[MGAprez]

I am a novice climber with the big dream of climbing Rainier. I am in strong physical condition and considering a 3 or 4 day climb next summer with one of the guide companies. Looking for some honest advice on if it is worth it and offers a resonable chance for a safe summitt.

IMG offers a 4 day Emmons trip or should I consider the DC route? Any feedback is appreciated.

[Alasdair]

Yes it is worth it, and yes it offers a resonable chance to summit and do it safely. Take the training very seriously and be in the best shape of your life when you show up and you will have the time of your life. It is most often the people who do not take the training seriously or underestimate what it takes to climb Rainier that dont make it to the top. The emmons is a great route and quite enjoyable. I would say its a more enjoyable route than the DC, but that is always debatable.

 

The only thing I would add is that from my expereince people who have never climbed before are making a bad desicion picking Rainier for their first climb. Its hard, and for most people really not that much fun. Most people are totally wasted when they get back to camp and end up with the general sentiment of that was great but I am never climbing again. "Im done" I personally think it is sad that these people invest money in all the gear and then based on one climb dont try it again. I think this is because they pick the wrong mountain for a first. Take a look at some other mountains first and decide whether climbing is for you and then go get the big one. I recomend Mt. Shucksan, Mt. Baker, or some of the moutains in the Rockies (not familiar with any that would be good, but someone else might be able to help you here).

[StreetBoss]

Hell NO - if you are in great condition and want a fantastic experience then look for a "private" guide. You'll learn more, have a better experience and will likely only be turned back or summit by your own merit. I've guided many MANY folks up Rainier and there is something very magical about someone's first climb being Mt Rainier.

 

As many others will probably chime in...Train seriously, expect to fail, and never give up!

Edited December 19, 2006 by Waterguy

[Fromage]

MGA, you sound like the ideal candidate for a guided Rainier climb. Going with a guided group gives you the opportunity to achieve a dream, learn some new skills, and whet your appetite for more climbing. If you are not experienced enough to go on a private trip then obviously going on a guided trip will increase your chances of summitting exponentially. As for the other factors that can prevent you from reaching the top (bad weather, poor acclimatization, injury in the party, slow team, etc.), those are all part of the enchilada and are impossible to predict. They are also part of the mountaineering experience, and many people find that they learn more and have a better time on trips where they don't summit.

 

I encourage you to also check out Alpine Ascents International. They, along with IMG, are recent recipients of Rainier guiding concessions. They run small trips with a high guide/client ratio and take excellent care of their folks. Some friends of mine went with them last year on the Emmons and enjoyed themselves thoroughly. If you want a lower stress, less crowded, and more aesthetic experience, then taking a 4-day trip up the Emmons will be the way to go. If you have less time and don't mind climbing among more traffic, then the DC is an appropriate choice.

 

Whichever you choose, try to book your trip for the second half of June or early July. Weather and conditions are usually quite good during this time period. Those trips also fill the earliest. If you have the money to spend and summitting Rainier is worth it to you, then you will get full value. The extra $400 or so it costs for a 4-day trip is definitely worth the extra time on the mountain and the slower pace can improve your chances of summitting. Good luck, and have fun.

 

Link to Mount Rainier via Emmons with Alpine Ascents

[ryland_moore]

Like others have said, if you have basic skills like crevasse rescue and have been on glaciers before, then finding a "private" guide may be the best approach. However, if not then please know your limits and go with a licensed guide. I would second what others have said. Do the EMmons Glacier route. Do not to the Dissapointment Cleaver. You will have a much better experience on the Emmons, it is more scenic, and the glacier is huge! I took a father and son up there last year (not guided, they had climbed a couple routes on Hood, Adams, and Baker on their own)because the father wanted a third, and we did this route, They absolutely loved it! It is the best option, little longer approach but well worth it. Plus you get to see the sun rise at @4am!

[Maestro]

I recomend Mt. Shucksan, Mt. Baker, or some of the moutains in the Rockies (not familiar with any that would be good, but someone else might be able to help you here).

OK, I can be that someone else since I have recently finished off the Colorado 14ers and have lots of acquaintance with the Rockies.

 

The mountains in the Rockies are nothing like Rainier unless you climb them in winter. They are fantastic in their own right, but if you want to prepare for Rainier, they won't do it as well as Baker or Hood. They do have the altitude, but even that doesn't compare because most trailheads to Colorado 14ers are above 10,000', so you don't have anything like the elevation gain that you will have on Rainier. Also if you are in Colorado for more than a couple of days, you get acclimatized to the altitude and then even that won't be anything like going up Rainier when you have been living at sea level. Plus if you are here, it's a long ways to Colorado just to train. If you want to go there to experience the Rockies, great; you won't be disappointed. But don't go there to train for Rainier.

Edited December 19, 2006 by Maestro

[JB Guero]

MG, if you want more info than just my reply here, email me. I cannot recommend more highly IMG. Have gone on three trips with them (Mexico, Russia and Adams), and they are the best, hands down. Of course, that is my opinion. Done any other climbing (ie: 14k's) or is this the first?

[bgriffs]

I recently went on a trip with an AMGA certified guide. I was very impressed with his level of expertise. It's nice to go with a smaller company/group if possible so you have more time to learn new stuff. Here is a link:

 

http://www.amga.com/guides/location.html

[CatsClaw]

Thanks - hope to see more posts here with recommendations

[MGAprez]

Thank you to all who have replied. You've given me the confidence that I'm on the right path to make this happen. I'm looking to do the Emmons route and am probably going to use IMG.

I've been taking the training seriously and your comments have reinforced the need to do so.

 

Thank you!!!!

[MGAprez]

Thank you to all who have replied. You've given me the confidence that I'm on the right path to make this happen. I'm looking to do the Emmons route and am probably going to use IMG.

I've been taking the training seriously and your comments have reinforced the need to do so.

 

Thank you!!!!

[MGAprez]

Thank you to all who have replied. You've given me the confidence that I'm on the right path to make this happen. I'm looking to do the Emmons route and am probably going to use IMG.

I've been taking the training seriously and your comments have reinforced the need to do so.

 

Thank you!!!!

[Couloir]

One more time...

[Maestro]

Oh, that happens to me too. You hit submit and it just sits there, so you do it again and it pops up twice! If you don't wait too long, you can get rid of the duplicates by clicking on edit post and then on delete post.