jackstraw0083 Posted November 2, 2006 Posted November 2, 2006 Hey all, I posted something similar in the "newbies" forum and received some good advice on what to expect in terms of the route condition, but I thought of a couple more questions and I figured this might be the best place to do it. So anyways, I'm planning on climbing the Leuthold Couloir in mid-December, and I was wondering if anyone could give me some info. on it. Are avalanche hazards typically a big problem this time of year for the route? Are there numerous crevasses at the headwall of the Reid glacier to be worried about? I know that it's very cold, but what sort of temperatures/wind speeds are to be expected this time of year? I've never climbed Mt. Hood before, so any advice would be helpful I'm sure. Thanks!!! Quote
marcus Posted November 2, 2006 Posted November 2, 2006 The entire Leuthold is around 35-40 degrees - perfect grade for avis. However, since it is west-southwest facing, the couloir can be pretty scoured by direct winds. In our maritime weather, 24-48hrs after a significant snowfall things tend to settle significantly. Lots of terrain above(Yocum to the left, Upper Reid headwall to the right) can send debris down the couloir...so recommend a helmet and a cold(calm) day. Watch the Reid schrund low down, no significant slots above that. One tool and a ski pole, couple pickets and a screw if you're on a rope. Happy Hunting! Quote
ivan Posted November 2, 2006 Posted November 2, 2006 what he said  temp/wind wise - it's usually butt-cold in december near the summit (20 and below) and wind can rage over 40 for a long time - i climbed luethold's in artic conditions last winter w/ very high winds the whole day, but as said, it's nicer when it's calm and not so much crap is falling down aroudn you.  hood rocks - enjoy. Quote
jackstraw0083 Posted November 5, 2006 Author Posted November 5, 2006 Hey thanks. I'm really hoping that the strong winds will scour the route so I'm not trudging through deep snow the whole way up. Any word on typical avalanche conditions? Quote
ivan Posted November 6, 2006 Posted November 6, 2006 marcus covered the avy info as well as can be done in general - check out http://www.nwac.noaa.gov/ before you go for specifics Quote
jackstraw0083 Posted November 7, 2006 Author Posted November 7, 2006 Thanks again for the advice, I appreciate it! Quote
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