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Leuthold Couloir in December info???


jackstraw0083

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Hey all,

I posted something similar in the "newbies" forum and received some good advice on what to expect in terms of the route condition, but I thought of a couple more questions and I figured this might be the best place to do it. So anyways, I'm planning on climbing the Leuthold Couloir in mid-December, and I was wondering if anyone could give me some info. on it. Are avalanche hazards typically a big problem this time of year for the route? Are there numerous crevasses at the headwall of the Reid glacier to be worried about? I know that it's very cold, but what sort of temperatures/wind speeds are to be expected this time of year? I've never climbed Mt. Hood before, so any advice would be helpful I'm sure. Thanks!!!

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The entire Leuthold is around 35-40 degrees - perfect grade for avis. However, since it is west-southwest facing, the couloir can be pretty scoured by direct winds. In our maritime weather, 24-48hrs after a significant snowfall things tend to settle significantly. Lots of terrain above(Yocum to the left, Upper Reid headwall to the right) can send debris down the couloir...so recommend a helmet and a cold(calm) day. Watch the Reid schrund low down, no significant slots above that. One tool and a ski pole, couple pickets and a screw if you're on a rope. Happy Hunting!

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what he said

 

temp/wind wise - it's usually butt-cold in december near the summit (20 and below) and wind can rage over 40 for a long time - i climbed luethold's in artic conditions last winter w/ very high winds the whole day, but as said, it's nicer when it's calm and not so much crap is falling down aroudn you.

 

hood rocks - enjoy.

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