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Reid headwall


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With the idea of climbing a sweet route and getting some last minute acclimatization, my partner and I set out Friday after work to camp and climb the Reid. The wind was howling from Friday on through Sunday, but the skies stayed clear through Saturday night, We motated over to the headwall armed with a couple of pickets and a few screws. The snow fluctuated between soft fluff to hard ice, but with two tools it wasn't so bad. As we exited the first gully we could see that the wind was shearing off the west ridge and vis was being cut by clouds rolling in from the North face. We decided to bail (variation 14A in Oregon High) and jumped to the west ridge and back down to camp. Probably could (read should) have stuck to the route and not bailed, but it was still a good climb. 50 to 60 mph all night and gust higher in the AM, getting down was just as exciting as the rest of the trip. All in all still better than watching golf.

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