sketchfest Posted May 6, 2002 Share Posted May 6, 2002 With the idea of climbing a sweet route and getting some last minute acclimatization, my partner and I set out Friday after work to camp and climb the Reid. The wind was howling from Friday on through Sunday, but the skies stayed clear through Saturday night, We motated over to the headwall armed with a couple of pickets and a few screws. The snow fluctuated between soft fluff to hard ice, but with two tools it wasn't so bad. As we exited the first gully we could see that the wind was shearing off the west ridge and vis was being cut by clouds rolling in from the North face. We decided to bail (variation 14A in Oregon High) and jumped to the west ridge and back down to camp. Probably could (read should) have stuck to the route and not bailed, but it was still a good climb. 50 to 60 mph all night and gust higher in the AM, getting down was just as exciting as the rest of the trip. All in all still better than watching golf. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imorris Posted May 6, 2002 Share Posted May 6, 2002 Where you in that Mtn Hardware tent at the saddle? Sorry if we woke you when we came by to pick up our skis. The wind was indeed brutal Sat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sketchfest Posted May 6, 2002 Author Share Posted May 6, 2002 No we were in the TNF at about 9,200' directly up from the top of the lift. We got hammered by the wind both nights we were there, I can only imagine how wicked it must have been for those guys at the saddle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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