TR: Climbing In Albuquerque

[still_climbin]

With my son now living in Albuquerque I took the opportunity to climb with him in the Sandias over the October 14-15 weekend. I was rather surprised at three things: the magnitude of the climbs there, the quality of the granite and the solitude.

 

We started by driving to the main summit of Sandia Mountain (10,678 ft) and decending by trail about 2,000 ft to the base of the Northwest Ridge of The Thumb (Grade III, 5.8 variation), a 10,107 ft peak north of Sandia's main summit. After some brush and moss (sorta N. Cascades) the climb begins with five pitches of mid-fifth class climbing on excellent, solid rock. The rock was clean considering the lack of traffic and was comprised of large crystalled pink granite. Unfortunately, the weather was not cooperating and we had to brace against 40 mph gusts and 40 degree fog. To avoid the wind we stayed off the crest as much as we could and this led us to some entertaining variations to the origional route.

 

After about 600 verticle feet the angle of the ridge lessens and the last 400 feet are mostely fourth class. The decent is fourth class downclimbing to a notch and a scramble back to the trail. The REAL crux is the hike back up 1,000 feet (at 10,000+ ft elevation) to the car after six hours of climbing. We arived at the car just as the sunset lit the fog and clouds surrounding us a bright pink. Then it was racing back to Albuquerque for famous barbecue and beer at Abby's.

 

The next day we tried some less ambitious slab climbing near the base of Sandia Mountain on the outskirts of the city. The setting is very different with the tall firs, pines and aspens replaced by cactus and desert shrub. We hiked 45 minutes up Lower La Cueva Canyon and found delightful, clean granite boulders, slabs and faces about the same scale as you'd find in Icicle Canyon. We did a fun multi-pitch route and retreated to beat an oncomming rain storm.

 

In all, the Sandia Mountain complex is strikingly beautiful and packed with excellent climbs. There is little climbing traffic and huge expanses of excellent rock remain to be explored and developed. If you can imagine fifteen or so Snow Creek Walls staggered along a mountain side...that's Sandia. There are a number of Grade V's and VI's on the North end of the mountain. If you're in the area I recommend you take your gear. The best guide book seems to be "Sandia Rock" by Mick Schein, 2003, although it's not comprehensive.

 

We took standard racks for both climbs and there was water in Lower La Cueva Canyon. You must pay $3.00 at either parking lot we used. Also bring money for Abby's.

 

Pics:

 

The upper 500 feet of The Thumb (Right skyline).

 

The lower 500 ft of the Thumb (Left Skyline)

 

View of 350' "The Pulpit" across the canyon.

 

View of 500' "Yataghan" across the canyon.

 

View of 800' "Torreon" Across the canyon.

 

Me three pitches above the forest.

 

Bryan at a tricky 5.8 move around a roof in a dihedral.

 

Bryan summiting The Thumb in wind and fog.

 

Desert climbing Sunday at 7,500 ft on "Flake and Bake"

[Mos_Chillin]

Nice TR and pics!

[BryanG]

Acutally, it is Rudy's BBQ. It is pretty much required after a day of climbing in New Mexico.

[plexus]

Wow!! That brought back memories. My dad taught me to rock climbing in the Sandias back when I was 10. I haven't been back there for 18 years. I spent a good chunk of my childhood climbing, scrambling and hiking in those mountains. I remember hiking from the base up to the top and it being the hardest thing I ever did when I was 12.

 

Thanks for the trip down memory lane.

[rob]

mmmm....Rudy's.

 

Sounds like a great trip.