Zenolith Posted March 19, 2001 Share Posted March 19, 2001 Has anyone done this route and want to spray about it? Is the rock in the upper third as crappy as the rest of the Cascades rock? I've seen the route in Oregon High..rather non descript. I don't want any pitch by pitch commentary 'cuz I like to carry stuff and then not use it..or better yet, bring the wrong stuff and then end up with unprotected hanging hip belays. Anyway... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billy Posted March 20, 2001 Share Posted March 20, 2001 I climbed 11 oclock a week ago or so and got a great look at the headwall. The rock looks pretty bad, but there are ways around that. You might only have to climb a short section of it. Of more concern I think would be the snow softness, it gets so much sun. Pre- dawn on a cold day would be good I think. Look for a 6000 foot freezing level day or colder. Hope this info helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zenolith Posted March 29, 2001 Author Share Posted March 29, 2001 I spent 4 days in the B Top area (March 24-27) and attempted to climb on 25 and 26. On 25 the wind was roaring inside the crater and we could not see 10' so we bailed and went skiing down lower where the wind was tolerable on Moon Mt. On 26 we headed up into deepening snow but calm winds until I did a shovel shear at the base of the headwall and found 1.5' of light powder on a thin ice crust which sheared very easily. The snow below the crust was unconsolidated corn, too soft and deep to adequately protect. We saw some small sluffs and it was still snowing so we decided to push our luck no further. We went to some steep gullies at 7800' and did some of the best powder skiing I've done all year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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