Mt Deception

[krazy_1]

Contemplating Deception soon, has anybody been up there lately? if so what's the scoop?

 

krazy 1

[Goat_Boy]

Not lately, but it's a fun scramble. The standard route out of Royal Basin, contrary to the guidebook (I think), is a rising traverse over scree and class 4 (low) to the low notch in the ridge connecting with the needles. You have several options, so just follow the path of least resistance. From the ridge, drop 100 feet onto snow and ascend the short, steep (40 degrees)slope to the shoulder between a small gendarme and the summit. Short walk up from there. Big, broad summit area with great views of Mystery, Gunsight Pass, etc. If you're in the area, a hike up to Surprise Basin puts you into really interesting country among the good rock routes and high spires.

[Norman_Clyde]

I first went up there in 1998, figuring based on the guidebook that a one day solo was not too much to expect. I found that class 2 was a bit of an understatement for the E. side of Deception: I tried a more direct ascent and had to back off when the small mushy snowfields reached about a 55 degree slope. Rock and dirt is very loose, also: wear a helmet. I went up in late July, but the snow was I think much less that year. It's a beautiful setting: the climbs may be somewhat shorter, less steep, and looser in general than the Cascades, but I still think that the experience of climbing in the Olympics is underrated. Have fun!

[krazy_1]

Sweet! thanks - I'll let you know how it goes.