[TR] Mt. Stuart- Complete North Ridge 9/3/2006

[telemarker]

Climb: Mt. Stuart-Complete North Ridge

 

Date of Climb: 9/3/2006

 

Trip Report:

It is said The Nose of El Cap in a day is the best day of climbing you can do. After climbing the complete N. Ridge of Stuart on Sunday, it may be the best day of climbing you can do in Washington. Okay, I know there are tons of routes I haven't touched yet. But this route has a lot to offer. Alpine setting, solid rock, excellent pro, knife-edge climbing. After climbing this, it reminds me of the NE Ridge of Bugaboo Spire in rock quality and position. The periodic explosions of the icefall add to the wildness of the setting. Will the icecliff calve off completely at some point, like the Slesse glacier?

Our day started at 3.30am at the Ingalls Lk. TH, an 8.30am start on the ridge, 4pm summit, and a 9pm return to the car. The descent was just freaking monotonous and endless, and Longs Pass, well, is Longs Pass. Like other TR's I've read about this route, we belayed only the first few pitches, then simuled to the Gendarme, belayed the Gendarme then simuled to the summit.

 

This photo from Alpinfox gives an excellent illustration of the entirety of the north ridge.

 

Ingalls area and Rainier from Goat Pass

 

 

 

Goat Pass

 

Lower Ridge

 

Steve Tift heading up first pitch.

 

The notch of the 1/2 ridge.

 

Feeling good about the opportunity to descend the Cascadian.

 

Parting shot from somewhere on Longs f-ing Pass

 

 

Gear Notes:

Light rack to 3 inches

 

Approach Notes:

No ice axe or poons required from Goat Pass to ridge start.

Edited September 5, 2006 by telemarker

[scottgg]

Nice job, I'm planning on heading up that thing next week.

[telemarker]

Nice job, I'm planning on heading up that thing next week.

 

I'd recommend the Mtnrs. creek approach over the Ingalls Lake, assuming you can shuttle between the two trailheads. You could probably cut an hour off the approach via Mtnrs. creek. More direct as well. Good luck!

[Alpinfox]

But you add about 100 miles of unneccesary driving. Car shuttle sounds like a pain in the ass to me.

 

My opinion on Stuart North Side climbs:

Early to mid season, approach mountaineers creek, descend Sherpa glacier, exit via mountaineers creek.

 

Late season, approach via Ingalls Lake, descend cascadian, exit longs pass.

 

 

Nice trip report and purty pictures!

[telemarker]

But you add about 100 miles of unneccesary driving. Car shuttle sounds like a pain in the ass to me.

 

My opinion on Stuart North Side climbs:

Early to mid season, approach mountaineers creek, descend Sherpa glacier, exit via mountaineers creek.

 

Late season, approach via Ingalls Lake, descend cascadian, exit longs pass.

 

 

Nice trip report and purty pictures!

 

Thanks! And thanks for letting me pilfer your photo. You're right about the unnecessary mileage around this time of year. But from the base, it just looks so easy from Mtnrs. basin to the base of the route, straight up a morain, vs. sidehill forever via goat pass...

 

More panoramic fun, from the summit looking Noreast:

 

Edited September 6, 2006 by telemarker

[ZONK]

Nice Trip report. Nice Pic's

Went up and did this on the 27th, Great Rock Great Ridge. I dont think the Glaciers will be around much longer !

[telemarker]

Nice Trip report. Nice Pic's

Went up and did this on the 27th, Great Rock Great Ridge. I dont think the Glaciers will be around much longer !

 

I agree on both counts. Did you heave on that one loose pillar on that funky downclimb before the "5.9" crack after the gendarme? It gets your attention real quick.

 

I bet the ice cliff glacier will become an annual pocket snowfield that will slide off in late spring at some point in the near future. Sad, eh?

[Rad]

Nice outing.

I remember that block. It looked suspect so we hardly touched it, but I bet a lot of people have pulled on it.