New in town/solo ice routes

[minddoc]

I am moving up to Ellensburg WA. this week 8.26.06. I am leaving my climbing partner behind as well. No matter I am looking to do some solo couloir climbs (or alpine ice) this late summer and fall and am wondering if anyone has some ideas for me. I am comfortable with sole ice routes at about 45 to 50 degrees. I don’t want to cross any huge glaciers to get there. I am use to Sierra couloirs.

 

Thanks for your help.

[Chad_A]

I may be missing something, here, but most of the routes you speak of melted out in the beginning of June, as they do most years. (North Buttress Couloir of Colchuck comes to mind).

 

Somebody might have some input on British Columbia that might have some old, moderate alpine ice hidden up there. Otherwise, you might have to wait until some freeze-thaw of November to get on something again.

 

Maybe someone will chime in with something I haven't thought of.

[Farrgo]

The only ice you're going to get right now is on the alpine headwalls. Which of course are at the business end of glaciers. Mt. Maude might be your best option from Ellensburg. I don't know what conditions are like right now though.

[minddoc]

I guess California may be a bit different, as the ice comes in late summer and fall for couloir climbs. Its great ice you should check it out. So, its seems that in Washington terms I am looking for alpine ice without to much of a glacier crossing. I am willing to travel a bit if need be. It looks like I may need to learn some new language for climbing in Washington and BC. I am guessing that the skiing will be a bit different as well.

Edited August 26, 2006 by minddoc

[Farrgo]

Ice in Washington, if it forms at all. Shows up in the late fall after a good storm and following cold temperatures, or in the spring with a good freeze-thaw cycle. Other than that, you wait for the snow to melt off and climbing alpine ice on glaciated peaks. We don't have anything like the U-Notch or V-Notch this time of year (that I know of). I think we have the same type of snow as California though? Sierra cement=Cascade concrete?

[minddoc]

I will check out Mt. Maude any other ideas? Cascade concrete--nice!

[fishstick]

The alpine ice in SW BC is just coming in now. Many options, but often you have to cross glaciers. Check out "Alpine Select , climbs in Southwest British Columbia and Northern Washington", by Kevin McLane.

 

Don Serl (don_serl) on this site is VERY knowledgeable about conditions in BC and will likely know options closer to your neck of the woods. Try PMing him.

 

Conditions will seem very different from the Sierras, but at the same time the PNW will likely offer more of a feeling of wilderness. Don't give up if the situation initially seems problematic. The stuff is out there, but local knowledge will help greatly.

 

Must run.

 

GB

[TyClimber]

Another one you might want to check out is the north face of Observation Rock down by Ranier. Its on a glacier but it normally isn't super broken up. Plus, this time of year all the slots will be so opened up it shouldn't be too hard to spot them.

[minddoc]

Thanks everyone. I love this cite it misses out on a lot of the rude sarcasm and gets down to the real issues.