ericb Posted August 25, 2006 Share Posted August 25, 2006 A buddy of mine from work want's to do this this weekend, and only has Cams up to BD #4......Will this work for the pitch 2 OW, or will he need a #5? Thoughts..... He's a 5.10 trad climber, but not a fan of OWs so I suspect he'd want to protect it well. Thanks in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted August 25, 2006 Share Posted August 25, 2006 Slide a #5 camalot up as a toprope through the upper O/W, small gear near the top of the o/w, belay your partner up, put #5 back into your pack for the rest of the climb. Consider foregoing the #5 since it's mostly low-angled with good foot holds for the right side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericb Posted August 25, 2006 Author Share Posted August 25, 2006 so are you saying the the OW can be adequately protected with something smaller? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted August 25, 2006 Share Posted August 25, 2006 What I think he said is that with the relatively low angle nature of the offiwith, the fact that it is in a corner, and with the existence of face holds, it is not as hard and scary as advertised. If you've recently lead a real 5.9 offwidth like the last pitch of GM at Index, you will laugh your way up it without having to bring along a #5 to slide up above you. Otherwise, borrow the #5. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mneagle Posted August 25, 2006 Share Posted August 25, 2006 It's not that hard for 5.9 but if you fell you would most likely be badly injured. Sliding a #5 Camalot or #6 WC up is best. Bigger and smaller stuff is only available at the beginning and the end of the pitch. Here it is: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lunger Posted August 25, 2006 Share Posted August 25, 2006 what matt said--more like a chimney w/ an ow crack in it, and cruisy for 5.9. we had an old style 4.5 Camalot as biggest piece, placed it approx. 2/3 way up in a relative constriction, worked fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted August 25, 2006 Share Posted August 25, 2006 It seemed to me that it was one of those awkward 5.9 cracks that you really were not at all likely to fall out of so much as struggle a bit to make upward progress. I am no off width expert nor a particularly bold leader and I didn't have any trouble leading it without any extra large gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
still_climbin Posted August 26, 2006 Share Posted August 26, 2006 Hey, Mneagle, ya got trees growing sideways outa the mountain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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