Conditions Update: 13 August

[chris]

This month has been absolutely amazing.

At the end of July, we still had significant snow from 10500' and higher. On an approach to the west side of the Palisades over Bishop Pass, I experienced constant snow from 11000' and snow in every southwest gully route on the west Palisades.

Then during the first week of August the Eastern Sierra experienced a significant thunderstorm and rain cycle, doubled with high temps. I was lucky to have missed it by visiting my girlfriend in Seattle.

I just finished another five day trip into the west side of the Palisades, and the conditions have completely changed. There is almost no snow in Dusy or Palisade Basin. None of the Palisade southwest chutes have significant snow. The conditions have quickly changed from the best to the hardest, as the melted snow now uncovered miles of talus and scree to negotiate instead.

When I looked down at the Palisade Glacier from the summits of Thunderbolt and North Palisade, V-Notch has a huge, overhanging bergschrund. It may be possible to traverse aproximately 300' climbers' left, crossing a bridge there, and then traversing back across a snowfield and exposed rock patch to re-enter the couloir. I imagine a similar problem may exist on the U-Notch Couloir.

The temps were consistently below freezing this week. I expect the North Couloirs on Gilbert, Thompson, and North Peak to be in good shape. Early starts are a must - its hot outside at mid-day.

[Chad_A]

Thanks for the input

[syudla]

Headed up for ice 9 next week, fingers crossed.