Pinto Rock Players

[Vancleave]

Was out scouting the elusive Wapiti elk this last Saturday and decided to check out the Pinto Rock area. I was always under the impression that everything in the South Cascades wasn't worth a shit for rock climbing, but sho nuf there was 2 stick figures scaling the steep pitches of Pinto Rock. If you are out there, post a route report. I been looking at Pinto for years, wondering. Cleave

[Off_White]

About 5 or 6 years ago I noticed a modern sport route on the south end of Pinto, closest to the parking area, looked to be in the 5.10 category. We walked all the way around, noted some other potential, but no other routes aside from the adventure routes mentioned in Beckey. I've been hoping someone would go to the trouble of developing routes, so I could just go and climb, but I haven't been back and haven't dug up any other information. Where on the rock were they?

[jhamaker]

"I've been hoping someone would go to the trouble of developing routes. . ."

 

Pinto needs "developing" like a fish needs a bicycle. Take a closer look. There are natural placements every few ft! The rock is surprisingly solid for the size of the protruding cemented holds.

 

". . .so I could just go and climb"

 

There ain't nothing stoppin' ya. There are some fun lines on the N formation as well, though they are realy short (25m and less).

[ryland_moore]

I don't necessarily associate "developing" with sport routes. New lines never sent need cleaning, discovering where placements go, etc. Even sending a route from the ground up on trad is "developing" a new route in my book. Maybe Offwhite is just waiting to see if there has already been FAs in the area.

 

Although I do suggest that if bolts are being placed out there on potential routes that could easily take pro, then those interested should curb any bolting intentions by making it clear that most if not all potential lines can take pro. If not, then when bolts start magically appearing, you can't really complain. Make it known that this area's potential lines can go on gear!

[jhamaker]

I'm w/ you ryland, though I may give differernt connotations to certain words.

 

"New lines never sent need cleaning. . ."

 

Not on Pinto. Very clean rock.

 

". . . discovering where placements go, etc."

 

I call this "climbing". ;-)

 

FYI I'm sure most of the Pinto Rk pinnacles natural routes have been climbed. If someone threatened to write a guide-book, I'm sure plenty of people would come out of the wood-work trying to remember what "routes" they were playing on what they thought it might be rated, and make up route names.

[Off_White]

Well, maybe I need to take another look, because that overhanging cobble stuff looked scary to me and i just assumed it was similar to the funky-rock-awesome-climbing choss one sees pictures of from Utah. Other parts had a Smith-like welded tuff look. I don't think of either of those motifs as ripe for ground up new routes, but it seems jhamaker speaks from experience, and its interesting to hear that the rock is solid. Relax, I'm not advocating bolting any natural pro routes, I'm just lazy and enjoy having route beta on what I'm getting into.

[ryland_moore]

I'm with ya. Never been to Pinto, so can't speak from experience. Hope nobody bolts lines that can be done with gear.

[SEF]

"Solid" is a relative term. I am aware of at least one climbing accident on Pinto, caused by one of those "holds" breaking off. Leader fall resulted, with injury and helicopter evacuation.

 

Not everyone shares the sentiment that the rock on Pinto is solid. I have not climbed there, but others who I respect have climbed there and will not go back.