Mt Jefferson - Jeff Park Glacier Route Conditions

[JeffG]

Anybody have recent info on the Jefferson Park Glacier route or the condition of the summit pinnacle?

 

Am heading there this weekend -- any info is appreciated.

[jaee]

Went in to look at the W. Ridge last weekend. Super soft snow kept us from getting very high. The summit pinnacle and Knife Edge Ridge were both partially covered in rime, but were fast on the way to becoming bare. I expect they'll melt off this week.

[Teleconvert]

I talked to several people coming out of the Whitewater trailhead on Saturday. The highest anyone got on the Jeff Park Glacier was up to the bergschrund. Snow was extrememly soft (high temps last weekend). Of three parties, none went higher than that.

[markseker]

We talked with one exiting team (July 1) and watched 3 other teams (July 2 -3) on the JPG route this past weekend. All abandonded their climbs at the impassable schrund, so we decided to play cards, work on our tans and swim in cold waters of Jeff Park instead.

 

Here's a shot of the upper JPG which shows boot paths and the nice horseshoe schrund:

 

Didn't I see you there walking around with duct tape sunglasses?

[letsroll]

Looks like you might be able to pass the schrund on the right hand side. Can't you pass the schrund via some rock on the left hand side? Or was it the right?

[JeffG]

What the photo of the upper glacier doesn't really show is that the pitch changes to the right of the schrund and the snow angle really steepens. On this weekend the snow was too soft for pickets to be of any use so this was not an option. Maybe under firmer snow conditions ...

 

Rock on left side of schrund (and north ridge in general) is poor and crumbly.