[TR] Strawberry Mtns.- Strawberry Falls 3/15/2006

[nordicpunk]

Climb: Strawberry Mtns.-Strawberry Falls

 

Date of Climb: 3/15/2006

 

Trip Report:

Oregon ice can be an elusive beast and when someone actually finds some, its like pulling teeth to get anyone to tell you where it is. Well, Im officially calling BS on this practice and telling the whole dang world about a super fun weekend I had in the Strawberry mtns.(near John Day, OR)

Headed in on Strawberry Campground rd. out of Prarie City. An earlier scouting trip resulted in our Subaru getting stuck in the snow. we came prepared with my 4Runner this time around. The great thing about SUVs is that you can drive in way further before you get stuck. so.. after a good warm-up of digging out the truck we grabbed our skis. (I recommend parking where the road begins to go uphill). It is about a 2-3 hour ski to Strawberrry falls. Luckily the skiing is very easy gradual uphill the whole way and you can cruise on the way out (~1 hr). You may want to add time to this estimate depending on the amount of new snow and your skiing skill. just to give reference to my skiing and climbing observations- if you are wondering if you are a better skier than me- your not...if you are wondering if you are a better climber- you're way better

You can reach Strawberry Lake in 1.5-2hrs. There is a lot of cool (read: way too gnarly for me to climb) ice around the lake. There is a great looking ~2 pitch climb with lots of other short stuff. but beware of the avy danger if it has snowed a lot. everything is sitting in a bowl and warrants caution.

After drooling over the ice at the lake, we continued up to strawberry falls. The trail is somewhat inconspicous when covered with snow. My advice is to follow the left shore line and cut gradually right as you head uphill at the end of the lake. You will hit the trail eventually and 30- 45min of skiing will bring you to the falls. We lost the trail off and on. future parties should not be overly concerned about this as we were. The small valley ends in a bowl that is hard to miss. The falls are very wide and nothing over one pitch.

We climbed the obvious line in the middle ~100ft. There is a sweet line up the right side (much longer) if you want to traverse right over the punchbowl first. Other than that, there are lots of short top-rope problems, some with short mixed sections in them too!

We had a great time running laps up the various lines. I would guess that the ice will be in until mid to late April depending on weather.

There is also a ~6 pitch climb in the bowl beyond the falls. It looked bad ass- sorry I didn't grab a picture of it. Again- some avy danger so be wary. Would love to go back sometime with a better climber than myself to do it.

Spent two days here, recommend camping at the lake. Skiing and climbing were both amazing. I know this report isn't that cool but I just wanted to give everyone some beta on super fun ice that will prob be in for a while yet. If anyone is wondering about lesser known ice in Oregon, I do not hold on to my secrets. (Having trouble with the pictures so hope to add them soon)

 

Gear Notes:

Standard ice rack. rock gear to 1" if you want to lead the cave at Strawberry falls. BC Skis- race crowns are sweet if the snow is solid enough

[sitandbefit]

Alright NP. Goin' out there and gettin' it. If you are so damn good of a skier, can you do a backflip? Just curious.

 

When you get out here this summer we'll have to style Tower 1, and maybe the Black Ice if its not melted out.

 

Matt

[sitandbefit]

Now that I think about it, Who can name the First ascensionist on both Tower 1 and the Black Ice Couloir w/o Googling it. Prize --> 1 free night on my couch while climbing at Vedauwoo. (I can't guarantee that you won't wake w/ me watching you)

[billcoe]

just to give reference to my skiing and climbing observations- if you are wondering if you are a better skier than me- your not...if you are wondering if you are a better climber- you're way better

 

I think I'm voting that writing some of the best stuff this year. Deep.............yet humorous.

 

thanks for sharing!

[nordicpunk]

Okay Matt- My guess is Petzoldt. I hope I win- I could use another night in your arms. And we will do Vedauwoo many times this summer. Oh yeah- And I did a new route yesterday near Bend on about 6- 10 cm. thick ice. friggin sweet!