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Need advice for route, conditions and PERMITS


hikerchick

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I am thinking about climbing Rainier July 1-5, 2006. I have been on Rainier before but didn't summit and made it to the top of the DC. I went in August and am curious what the expected conditions are in early July. Is it likely given snowfall amounts this year that the Ingraham Direct route will still be safe or is the DC the standard route by July?

 

Also, I was thinking of taking my time. There will be 2 of us climbing and we will likely spend the first night at Camp Muir, the second at Ingraham Flats and the third night on the summit if the weather cooperates and the last night at Muir.

 

The above plan is just an idea and obviously the weather will decide how it plays out in the end so my question is mostly how to write up the permit? Do I have to specify where I will spend each night? What if I sign up for the summit but decide once on the mountain that it is safer to head back down? Can I write the permit for 4 nights at Camp Muir and then choose to ascend to higher camps or do I have to stick to my original itinerary?

 

I guess I am mostly confused how to write up the permit properly, any help is appreciated. Thanks.

 

hikerchick

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If you have that much time to make a leisurely ascent, why take the most heavily traveled route on the mountain? There are numerous other routes of comparable technical difficulty that would be more pleasant and safer on account of fewer people. You are planning to go at the peak of the season. If you want to share your route and camps with big crowds, by all means do so, but there is so much more to the mountain than the superhighway that runs through Muir.

 

With the amount of time you have you could easily do a relaxed ascent of the Tahoma Glacier, for example, where you will maybe see a couple other parties. Even the Emmons will be less crowded than the DC, although probably not by much. Take a look at Mike Gauthier's guidebook and you will find a plethora of choices that will give you an excellent Rainier experience without the cluster of the DC.

 

Otherwise, to address your conditions question, I think the mountain will still be in great shape in July provided that the summer doesn't heat up quickly. I was up at Muir yesterday scouting some lines and was amazed by how much snow there is this winter. More is forecast to fall, too, so the summer climbing season will be a long one if things don't melt out too quickly.

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Thank you very much for the info, Fromage. I was going to ascend from Camp Muir because I am familiar with the route and have been there before and know a little what to expect. I guess since there will only be two of us on the rope compared to the 4 people on the rope when I went before, I was going with what I felt comfortable with. Also during my last trip we had a climber who had ascended Rainier a number of times and this time I will be the one with the most experience with glacier travel.

 

I will likely return again to climb via a different route but I think for the peace of mind of familiarity, I will deal with the crowds and the "highway" this time around.

 

Any clue how best to write up the permit for 4 nights? Do I have to list the exact camping site or just listing Camp Muir will include the higher camps?

 

Thanks again for the info.

 

hikerchick

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While not an official answer, listing Camp Muir does not include anything other than Camp Muir. Same with Ingraham Flats.

 

When you reserve a campsite, you are either reserving for specific designated camps (Muir, Ing. Flats, Emmons Flats, Schurman, etc.) or for "alpine zones." The NPS have maximum quotas for the number of people allowed to camp in each zone, so whether or not you can snag a permit to camp somewhere outside of the established camps will totally depend on how many other folks have got there before you.

 

Not sure how you can do exactly what you want to do. You do realize you're talking the 4th of July weekend, don't you? I'm thinking things will be filled up pretty good, so you probably won't have a lot of wiggle room anywhere you go.

 

My suggestion is to call the park and ask to talk to a climbing ranger or someone versed with the ins and outs of alpine zone permitting.

 

-kurt

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yeah, I realize it is July 4th weekend, unfortunately I have to schedule it then, not my best option, I know.

 

When you say "alpine zone", does that indicate any on glacier camping above 10,000 feet that doesn't fall within those designated camping zones?

 

If I want to maximize my chance of getting good weather days, which of the following would be the best option?

 

4 nights at Camp Muir, attempting summit on the best day

4 nights at Ingraham Flats, attempting summit on the best day

1 night Camp Muir, 3 nights at Ingraham Flats, ditto on summit day

 

or any other combination?

Thanks for the suggestions . . . I will try to call the Park and ask for their advice as well.

 

hikerchick

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When you say "alpine zone", does that indicate any on glacier camping above 10,000 feet that doesn't fall within those designated camping zones?

 

Basically, yes. If it's above 10k and it's not a designated camp, it's an alpine zone.

 

See this map...

 

http://www.nps.gov/mora/general/maps/wildzones.pdf

 

It's not the easiest thing to read, but comparing it to a topo map, you'll get the idea. Anything that starts with an "A" is an alpine zone. If it starts with a "X" it's a cross-country zone.

 

If I want to maximize my chance of getting good weather days, which of the following would be the best option?...

 

Don't see that your odds are any better with any of those options. It's been my observation that the longer you stay on the mountain, the greater chance you're going to get spanked all the way home. But then some are into that around here, so to each his/her own.

 

Good luck with whatever you decide!

 

-kurt

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I for one am into the three or four-day itinerary on Mt. Rainier. I've climbed it 12 or 13 times, and the most fun was the trip where we took five days. Yes, you can run up and down in a day, if you are fit, but Mt. Rainier is a cool thing and it is worth taking time to enjoy it.

 

Nelson is right that there is a downside to hanging out high on the mountain where you may be exposed to high winds or storm or whatever but just last week I saw Mike Gautier give a talk where he said that the odds of a successful summit climb improve dramatically for parties that spend an extra day at their high camp before going for the summit.

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Nelson is right that there is a downside to hanging out high on the mountain where you may be exposed to high winds or storm or whatever

 

Given this possibility, is it then a better idea to stay 4 nights at Camp Muir and wait for good weather there instead of Ingraham Flats? The reason I was leaning towards IF is because I am a SLOW hiker and being closer to the summit will help my summit bid but am willing to start before midnight from Camp Muir instead if I am more likely able to wait out bad weather at CM than at IF.

 

hikerchick

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Nelson is right that there is a downside to hanging out high on the mountain where you may be exposed to high winds or storm or whatever

 

Given this possibility, is it then a better idea to stay 4 nights at Camp Muir and wait for good weather there instead of Ingraham Flats? The reason I was leaning towards IF is because I am a SLOW hiker and being closer to the summit will help my summit bid but am willing to start before midnight from Camp Muir instead if I am more likely able to wait out bad weather at CM than at IF.

 

hikerchick

 

If the weather is sucking at the Flats, it's sucking at Muir - and vice versa.

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Advantages of Camp Muir include that there is dry ground to sit on, you don't have to blue bag your crap, and you can see off to the Southwest where the weather usually comes from. If I was going to spend three nights up there, I'd probably opt for Muir but, on the other hand, the Flats will feel more like you are on a big mountain somewhere and it IS that much closer to the summit.

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