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Posted

Would anyone know if The North face routes of Chair Peak will remain in condition over the next several weeks?? Any Beta would be greatly appreciated!!!

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Posted

Highly doubtful. The whole area has deteriorated considerably in the past few weeks and the melt freeze cycle has become more melt/melt cycle including the recent new snowfall. But don't let that stop ya from trying! Winter is a better time...

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

On Memorial Day I will be coming back from work in Eastern Washington, and might have just enough time to sneak up to Chair Peak Basin to look for my lost axe. Anyone been up there lately? Has any melt/freeze crust developed, or will I be postholing in my snowshoes? Any info will be much appreciated.

Posted

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but I was up there today and the North Face routes are toast. I saw several slides come off just while Glimpsing that direction. Snow conditions in the area are horrible for that sort of climbing. [Frown] I would have appreciated snow shoes while traveling up and down the basin but once you get a little bit higher theres no need.

 

[ 05-27-2002, 04:11 PM: Message edited by: rock-ice ]

Posted

Rock-ice, that may have been you I ran into close to the Snow-Source lake saddle. I went up to look for my axe, and as I should have known, it was a hopeless task-- but a good excuse for a little jaunt on my way back from Othello, WA. I packed snowshoes all the way up, but never put them on-- I actually sank further in the high basin, where the snowed-over avalanche debris held the occasional small pitfall (but no overhead drops). It was too warm and wet for any snow route of any steepness today. I did see Chuck and Charlie heading up to the Tooth-- hope you guys had a good climb. [Razz]

Posted

Tooth was fun. The Charlie I was with is not "got a topo?" Charlie of CC.com fame.

 

We started walking about 11:30. The snow was perfect for walking with hiking boots. At least when you're following the footsteps of everyone who's been up to the Tooth on Memorial Day weekend. The parking lot seemed pretty empty, and it seemed like we were pretty alone up there, then when we were in Great Scott Basin, two guys came over the North shoulder of Denny and hurriedly plunged stepped down the slope to get in line ahead of us.

 

My plan was to climb some cracks and stuff I had scoped out previously just West of the South Face route. We snaked up a pretty fun route that stayed independent of the SF until the 3rd class section. We climbed half-pitches with a doubled 8.5 50m rope. Some looseness, but mostly solid, with a couple of fun sections. The entire time we were on the route deviation there was non-stop activity of climbers and rappers on the SF route, but by the time we joined it, we were alone. About that time the weather finally started to cave on us, so we quickly summitted and then got out of there.

 

Easy plunge stepping and butt-glissading sped us to the truck in half the approach time. Some bonehead plunge stepped down the butt-glissade groove down to Source Lake area. If you are reading this, I hate you [Mad][Mad][Mad] . Well maybe not that bad, but you are sort of an idiot [Razz] .

 

Anyway, got back to the truck to find the battery totally dead, 'cause I left the lights on. Luckily some guy arrived soon after us and gave us a jump so we didn't have to do the push-start grovel.

 

As far as I could tell, no parking pass yet required!

Posted

quote:

Originally posted by chucK:

Tooth was fun. The Charlie I was with is not "got a topo?" Charlie of CC.com fame.

 

As far as I could tell, no parking pass yet required!

Until May 15th the parking lot is considered part of Alpental. After that it magically becomes the snow lake trailhead

Posted

quote:

Originally posted by chucK:

Do you mean
June
15th?
[Confused]

Nope. "Called north bend ranger station. Don't need parking permits till after may 15. Also said in reality they probibly won't be checking them for a while"

 

Since as we all know: the Northwest Forest Pass (the old trail park permit) is required at most Pacific Northwest NF THs year round.

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